While researching for our recent trip to Guadalajara, I stumbled upon a piece of travel advice from a local. They said something along the lines of, “Food is the reason you come to Guadalajara; everything else is just a bonus.”
That really resonated with my food-loving heart and confirmed for me that we made the right choice for our destination.
And now that I’m back home, I can wholeheartedly say that person’s opinion is completely valid. There are so many incredible sights to see and things to do in Guadalajara – but the food is so incredible that it deserves to be the main draw. In fact, that’s why I’m sharing my food guide here today before I share my full Guadalajara travel guide – the food scene is worth the cost of a plane ticket alone.
(Another observation I read is that all of the food in Guadalajara is wet – I can also now say that’s true, too).
During this trip, I aimed for a balance of Tapatío (i.e., someone from Guadalajara) classics and restaurants that are defining what modern cuisine in Guadalajara looks like. This looks like equal parts tiny, hole-in-the-wall spots that have been serving the same dishes for more than half a century, and ultra-hip joints reimagining those dishes in almost-unrecognizable forms. Both are valid, and both deserve to be celebrated.
In today’s post, I’m sharing everything we ate during our week in Guadalajara, broken down by category: antojitos (which literally means “little cravings” but really refers to street foods and snacks), restaurantes (you probably figured out what that means, but these are sit-down meals consumed within a restaurant), dulces (sweets and desserts), café (or coffee, and there’s a lot of good stuff brewing), and bebidas (that really just means drinks, but in this guide, it mostly refers to alcoholic ones). You’ll notice that most of the places listed are located in or around the neighborhood where we stayed, Colonia Americana. We chose an Airbnb in this neighborhood because of its proximity to cafés and bars where we could start and end our day conveniently, but there is good food to be had all over the city. And because a picture is worth a thousand words (and we ate a lot during our trip) this is quite the photo-filled post. Cuidado: if you’re not hungry now, you might be by the time you finish reading. ¡Buen provecho!
ANTOJITOS
Birrieria la Victoria
Birrieria la Victoria | C. Manuel Acuña 1511, Villaseñor, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Birrieria la Victoria is technically a fonda/restaurante, but I had just a light bite in mind for my visit, so I’m placing it in the antojitos category (plus, could I really start a Guadalajara post with anything other than birria?). The Birria here is ultra-traditional – which makes sense, as they’ve been serving Tapatíos since 1948 (the walls are covered in framed newspapers from historical events that have occurred since they opened!). Whether you choose to dip or pour your consomé is up to you; birria is a non-negotiable when visiting the city.
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Tacos De Barbacoa Arthuro
Tacos De Barbacoa Arthuro | C. José María Morelos 957, Col Americana, Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
To start, the tacos I ate at Tacos De Barbacoa Arthuro just might be the very best barbacoa tacos I’ve eaten in my life. In Guadalajara, tacos de barbacoa are typically served at breakfast (and sometimes lunch) – and we happily obliged early one morning. This is a popular neighborhood spot, and unless you want to order at the window, you may have to wait for a table. But once seated, be sure to order your tacos with cheese – the griddled crunchy tacos are heaven.
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Ahogadas Betos
Ahogadas Betos | C. Pedro Antonio Buzeta 757, Ladrón de Guevara, Ladron De Guevara, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
When we arrived to find the famous Tortas Ahogadas El Profe Jimenez closed, we turned to Ahogadas Betos instead. And maybe, just maybe, it was the better option anyway. In addition to having a street-service counter, Ahogadas Betos has a small dining room where you can escape the sun for a few moments. In our usual fashion, we opted for a smaller portion to allow us to enjoy more food throughout the day. Here, tortas ahogadas come in regular and mini sizes – but even the mini size was incredibly generous. And if the sandwich wasn’t drowned enough, the staff brought out an extra serving of consomé to drench it even more.
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Birrieria las 9 Esquinas
Birrieria las 9 Esquinas | C. Colón 384, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Our initial birria destination was Birrieria El Paisano, but as they had already sold out for the day, we went across the square to Birrieria las 9 Esquinas instead. We never made it back to El Paisano, but were more than satisfied with the birria at las 9 Esquinas. Sitting near the open kitchen was a treat – watching the tortilla-making action up close was mesmerizing.
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Fresh Fruit
Various Locations
The fruit in Mexico is nothing like the fruit we purchase from supermarkets in the U.S. Not only is it more fresh and flavorful, but street vendors choose the ripest ones to cut and serve right in front of you. The fruit vendor at the canyon access by Parque Mirador Independencia was a delight – along with the watermelon and mango he prepared for us.
RESTAURANTES
Ponte Trucha Negro
Ponte Trucha Negro | C. Ignacio Ramírez 646, Santa Teresita, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Ponte Trucha Negro is an essential stop for seafood lovers visiting Guadalajara. Located in the Santa Teresita neighborhood, you’ll likely see the line at the door before you see the sign on the building (even at our late lunch hour of 4 p.m., there was a long wait). The menu is definitely a bit overwhelming, but at least you’ll get a chuckle from the names of some of the offerings. Order a variety of dishes to share with your table-mates, and have an extra tostadita de atún for me, please.
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Kamilos 333
Kamilos 333 | C. José Clemente Orozco 333, Santa Teresita, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Kamilos 333 and its neighbor, Karne Garibaldi, are both known for the typical Guadalajara dish: carne en su jugo (literally, “meat in its juice”). Locals and tourists alike debate over which restaurant serves the best version – and even though Karne Garibaldi holds the record for serving the fastest meal, in the end, we decided on Kamilos 333. The specialty dish, spelled “Karne en zu Jugo” here, is sold by weight. Unless you’re famished, I wouldn’t recommend going any larger than the chico size (in retrospect, I should have ordered the mini) because the meal is incredibly rich and is also accompanied by a delicious bean soup. And no matter what size you order, please don’t skip the guacamole. It’s heavenly.
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Yunaites
Yunaites | Calle Garibaldi 824, Jesús, 44200 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Yunaites is a must-visit for brunch in the Mercado IV Centenario. The tiny counter sends out dishes full of local flavor with a concentration on what is in season. The menu has likely already changed since my visit, but you’re certain to enjoy a stunningly beautiful meal at the small shared table. Queue up well ahead of your desired mealtime – it’s a popular spot for a good reason.
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La Cafeteria
La Cafeteria | Libertad 1700, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
La Cafeteria is an all-day spot that would feel right at home in New York or London, with fancy coffees, juices, and killer brunch fare. I especially enjoyed the mix of traditional dishes and modern breakfast favorites.
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Belial, Coctelería + Cocina
Belial, Coctelería + Cocina | now closed
It wasn’t on our list, but I’m so glad we found Belial, Coctelería + Cocina (now closed) as we were running out of open places to eat and drink one evening. The atmosphere is a bit more clubby than I’m used to, but it worked out perfectly as they were open and serving both food and drink late into the night. The cocktail program is especially artful!
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PALREAL
PALREAL | C. Lope de Vega 113, Arcos Vallarta, 44130 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
If I could have visited one place on this list for a second time, I might have chosen PALREAL. This chic daytime cafe offers a brunch-ready menu that is equally split between breakfast and lunch options (perfect for my non-egg-eating media naranja). They were miraculously open for brunch on Easter Sunday, so we made reservations in advance. That was an easy choice, but the menu was much more difficult to navigate as everything sounded delicious (and better yet, it absolutely was). I’m not sure if I’ll ever be able to eat guacamole again unless it’s topped with chunks of fresh tuna (but obviously I’ll try, even though it might be difficult). And while I’m not quite sold on lengua yet, I’m glad I gave it a chance.
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Quelite
Quelite | C. Pedro Moreno 1078A, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
My birthday breakfast at Quelite was one of the many highlights of our trip. Although the restaurant is known for its innovative dinner menu, breakfast is treated with the same care at a much lower price point. The bottomless café de olla is a must.
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Xokol
Xokol | now at C. Ignacio Herrera y Cairo 1375, Santa Teresita, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Our visit to Xokol warranted its own dedicated blog post – head here to read all about our experience at this restaurant dedicated to reviving indigenous ingredients and recipes.
DULCES
City Market
City Market | Plaza Patria, Av de la Patria 1950, Plaza Patria, 45160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
I love perusing fancy grocery stores in major cities, and City Market is one of the nicest I’ve ever visited. Although we were there to pick up some of my favorite Mexican chocolates, I also picked up a couple of sweet treats from the bakery, like this all-butter concha and a new-to-me treat called a Garibaldi. This buttery pound cake is given an extra sweetness thanks to apricot jam and nonpareils. Who knew grocery store pastries could be so decadent?
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Night Market
Templo Expiatorio | C. Manuel López Cotilla 935, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
I’m not sure if the night market is always held in front of the Templo Expiatorio or if it just coincided with our Semana Santa visit, but it was clearly the place to be. Vendors were set up throughout the square, selling food so tempting that even if you were already full, you wouldn’t be able to resist. In addition to a quesadilla (not pictured), we finally found a vendor selling jericalla (Guadalajara’s famous flan-like dessert) and another frying up fresh churros.
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Karmele
Karmele | Av. José María Morelos 2279A, Arcos Vallarta, 44130 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
We stopped by Karmele to pick up a pastry on the way to meet up with our Tequila tour group, only to be tempted by literally everything. I wish I would have had time to return – my almond croissant was as good as any I’ve had in France.
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Nieves de Garrafa Chapalita
Nieves de Garrafa Chapalita | C. Juárez 246, Centro, 45500 San Pedro Tlaquepaque, Jal., Mexico
Throughout the city, you’ll find stalls selling Nieve de Garrafa – a sorbet-like frozen treat. They come in more flavors than you can imagine and are the best way to beat the heat (far better than a stomach full of dairy on a 90°F day, as you would experience with ice cream). In the case of the ultra-popular Nieves De Garrafa Chapalita in Tlaquepaque (pictured at the top of this post), you’ll have plenty of time to figure out which flavor you’d like, as the line is almost guaranteed to be long.
CAFÉ
Gufo Café
Gufo Café | C. Manuel López Cotilla 1260-A, Jardín, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Gufo Café is a cute outdoor spot in Americana, serving coffee exclusively sourced from Mexico. Even during the hottest part of the day, Gufo remains cool thanks to its shady tree cover and patio umbrellas.
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Centenario Café
Centenario Café | C. Joaquín Angulo 841, 44200 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Blink and you’ll miss this tiny café located in one of the outside stalls of the Mercado IV Centenario. Centenario Café serves absolutely delicious coffee (and delicious-looking pastries!).
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La Trompada Caligari
La Trompada Caligari | Calle Argentina 62, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Ultra-hip La Trompada Caligari offers incredible coffee in the heart of Americana. I regret not bringing a bag of their beans home as a souvenir!
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KONA Miscellaneous Corner
KONA Miscellaneous Corner | C. Pedro Moreno 1104, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Need a tattoo along with your caffeine fix? KONA Miscellaneous Corner offers customers both (no word on how caffeinated the tattoo artists are, however). I skipped the ink but sipped on a divine cold brew instead.
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Café Manila
Café Manila | Calle Prisciliano Sánchez 967, Col Americana, Colonia Americanas, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
We weren’t expecting to run into another Charlottean in Guadalajara, but we did during our stop at Café Manila. This recently-opened coffee shop in Americana is run by a pair of ex-pats who are focused on developing the place to be in the community, with the community. It helps to have great local baristas, of course.
BEBIDAS
Tejuino Marcelino
Tejuino Marcelino | C. Joaquín Angulo 819, Artesanos, 44200 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
I’d heard that the best version of the classic Tapatío beverage, tejuino, could be found at Tejuino Marcelino – so, of course, we paid a visit! The business has been run by Don Marcelino and his family since 1955 and has been serving up the fermented corn beverage to generations of locals. As for the taste and viscous texture, I can fairly say that it’s not for me. But I’m glad I gave it a try – and you should too.
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De La O Cantina
De La O Cantina | Calle Argentina 70, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
The cocktails and atmosphere are the reason you wait in line to get into De La O Cantina, but once inside, don’t skip over the food. The tiki bar serves up perfect bites alongside its strong and creative cocktails.
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Vietnam Bar
Vietnam Bar | C. Pedro Moreno 1296, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
In all honesty, I didn’t feel like I was cool enough for Vietnam Bar – but I also wasn’t going to let that stop me from checking out this beer + mezcal + vinyl bar in Americana (we were ignored for the vast majority of the evening, so apparently my assumptions weren’t incorrect). Regardless, I’m glad I did, because I found my new favorite Mexican beer: the Neippólita from Cerveza Fortuna. And obviously, we couldn’t resist ordering some snacks to go with our drinks.
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Pare de Sufrir Mezcalería
Pare de Sufrir Mezcalería | Calle Argentina 66, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
For a region that is home to tequila, I was a little surprised at just how seriously Guadalajara takes its mezcal. Pare de Sufrir Mezcalería is just one example of where the other agave spirit takes center stage. I admit that I was clueless as to where to begin (and in this hipster hideout there’s no menu!), but our bartender was able to make a recommendation. Keeping with local tradition, we ordered our mezcals with a beer.
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Tonel de Diógenes
Tonel de Diógenes | Calle Argentina 17, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Tonel de Diógenes is a microbrewery in the heart of Americana, and we just made it in for a drink before closing (they close at 8 p.m. on Sundays). The menu skews Spanish, with olives, jamón, and vermouth – but we were there to escape the heat and did so with just a beer. Oh, be sure to take a restroom break – it’s… entertaining.
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Marchanta Bar
Marchanta Bar | now closed
We took a risk and walked over to Marchanta Bar (now closed) one evening – a place with no online presence that I can find, other than a very empty listing on Google Maps. We were pleasantly surprised to find good, strong drinks made from local spirits. Sometimes taking a risk pays off!
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El Puesto Ambulante
El Puesto Ambulante | Juan Manuel 1562, Col Americana, Santa Teresita, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
El Puesto Ambulante is a tiny brewpub in the Americana neighborhood, with great food and great beer. With an hour to go before closing time, we just had time for one beer each (so we made the most of it and added some snacks to go along with it). The fondue approach to quesabirria was a first for us, but it was delicious. On the other hand, I learned the hard way what cueritos are, and I won’t be ordering them again.
WITH MORE TIME IN GUADALAJARA…
A week seems like more than enough time to eat everything you want to eat in a city – but that’s not the reality in Guadalajara. I truly believe that a lifetime still wouldn’t be long enough to sample everything the city has to offer.
If you’re planning on staying longer, I have a few other restaurants, bars, and cafés from my list that we just didn’t get to (if you go, be sure to report back!): Palrealito, Tacos Miguelito, Tortas Ahogadas El Profe Jimenez, Tacos Don José, Birrieria El Paisano, Tortas y Tacos Los Gueros, La Panga del Impostor, Birrieria Tlaquepaque “Don Javi”, La Flaca, El Gallo Altanero, Sabroso Veneno Cervecería, Casa Trapiche, Comala barra de Café, En Punto. Barra de Café, Sinónimo, Caligari Café, Fitzroy Espresso Bar, and Churros La Bombilla (to name a few!).
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: EATING AND DRINKING IN GUADALAJARA
You’ve already heard this, but it bears repeating: don’t drink the water. Bottled water is inexpensive, but you’ll want a lot of it during your stay, especially in the hotter months. And remember that water comes in many forms, like coffee, ice, and a cleanser for fruit; it’s okay to be a little choosy where you order from. Like in the U.S., you won’t look out of place walking down the street with a bottle of water from the 7-Eleven in your hand (though you might feel guilty like we did at the sight of our water bottle graveyard). Thankfully, our Airbnb had a demijohn, and we could refill smaller bottles any time we were “home.” At restaurants, you can order bottled water or ask for filtered water (thankfully, beer is always a safe choice!). No matter what, be sure to pack Immodium just in case.
Know the Spanish words for foods you want to avoid. Ideally, you’ll know more words than this, but if you really don’t want to eat tripe or octopus, know that you’ll want to skip over anything that says tripa or pulpo. Those who follow a strict diet will likely need to do a little research before they leave. Though many dishes contain animal products, vegans and vegetarians will have ample opportunity for amazing meals – and the more-hipster neighborhoods have restaurants that are fully vegan (we even found a street vendor at the night market with soy chorizo!). Those who do not or cannot eat gluten can breathe easy as well; more often than not the tortilla of choice is a corn one (though of course, Celiac diners should take extra precautions in case of cross-contamination). Don’t be afraid to share with staff that you have an allergy (“Soy alérgico al… gluten, leche, etc.”).
Eat at the proper times. Meals in Guadalajara are consumed at different times than meals here in the U.S. Lunch in particular is eaten well after noon, and many places that serve breakfast and lunch will close for the evening around 4 p.m. or 6 p.m. and not reopen until the following morning. That being said, street food is fair game any time the stand is open!
Don’t fear street food. If you visit Guadalajara and don’t eat at a street stand, I’m sorry, but we can’t be friends. Most stands you encounter are as fresh and safe as any restaurant, but to be sure, only stop at ones that are busy. This means that food is moving quickly and not sitting out, and that locals know it’s safe (and delicious!). Order quickly and have a seat if there’s room – it may be on a stool or it might just be on an overturned bucket. When your food is ready, add whatever toppings you’d like from the bowls on the counter, but go easy on the salsas to start. There will undoubtedly be one as hot as fire, but you’ll never be able to tell without tasting it. You may have to squeeze past someone to get to the condiments; just say “con permiso” and go for it. Looking for napkins? Look up. They’re often hanging from the top of the cart. Unless you’ve ordered your food to go, payment is made at the end of the meal; after all, you’re a guest at their stand. Have exact change if possible, and be sure to throw a little extra in the jar that says propina.
Be polite. This is a general travel tip, but I want to emphasize how important it is to use your “please” and “thank yous” (por favor y gracias) with the people serving your food. It seems straightforward, but it can be easy to forget niceties when you’re simply trying to place and pay for an order in a language you don’t understand. Your brain will be working overtime, and you’d be surprised how quickly saying “please” can drop from your vocabulary. When you arrive at a restaurant or stand, greet the staff with a “buenos días,” “buenas tardes,” or “buenas noches” depending on the time of day (morning, afternoon, and evening) – or at the very least a friendly and sheepish “hola.” To order, you’ll say, “me da [item], por favor” which literally translates to “give me [item] please,” yet is not impolite, despite sounding so in English. The second person can then say, “y para mí, [item] por favor” (“and for me, [item], please”) or “el mismo para mí, por favor” (“the same for me, please”). And always, always say gracias.
¿Para aquí o para llevar? You’ll hear this often if you choose to visit quick-serve places. This just means “for here or to go?” If you can, take your items para aquí, por favor.
Toss it correctly. Keep the city clean by properly disposing of your waste – even if you have to carry it for a while. I found very few recycling options in the city, however, our Airbnb had a separate bin and we waited until we returned to toss our empties.
Enjoyed this post on Guadalajara’s food scene? You may also like:
- Day Trip to Tequila
- Restaurant Review: Dining at Xokol
- Guadalajara Travel Guide
- Packing List for Guadalajara
- Visiting Guadalajara During Semana Santa
- Mexico City Food Guide, Part One
- Mexico City Food Guide, Part Two
- Three Days in Mexico City
- Five Days in Mexico City
- Visiting Teotihuacan with a Local
- Attending Lucha Libre in Mexico City
- Restaurant Review: Dining at Pujol
- Five Days in Puerto Vallarta
- Puerto Vallarta Packing List
- Five Days in Mexico City Packing List
- Three Days in Mexico City Packing List
