My visit to Montgomery felt like a whole lot of “hurry up and wait.” Michael and I arrived in the early afternoon from Birmingham, located about an hour north of the state’s capital. We headed downtown and paid for a metered spot near the Civil Rights Memorial. My first impression of the city’s downtown area was how quiet it was – we truly felt like we were in a ghost town. The closer we got to the center of downtown, the more activity we saw. But we could never shake this strange feeling.
Perhaps Montgomery’s tumultuous history is to blame – perhaps the atmosphere will forever remain heavy from the mistreatment of Black and indigenous populations that occurred here (and elsewhere, of course, but there’s an undeniable concentration of this in Montgomery).
There is a great opportunity for learning in the “Cradle of the Confederacy.” There’s immense discomfort to wade through and years of history to dissect and unpack. One day is not enough to fully reconcile with the injustices that occurred here and elsewhere in the American South. But it is enough time to spark discussions and actions that should continue long after you return home.
In town for the day? Here’s what you should see and do:
THINGS TO DO IN MONTGOMERY
Civil Rights Memorial
Civil Rights Memorial | 400 Washington Ave, Montgomery, AL 36104
The Civil Rights Memorial (bottom right image) is available for viewing 24 hours a day, year-round, but I highly recommend visiting during the opening hours of the accompanying Civil Rights Memorial Center for more context.
With a $2 $5 entry fee for adults and free $2 admission for children, we were immediately impressed by the accessibility of the Center. Upon entering, patrons are presented with the stories of numerous civil rights martyrs, including several names we recognized and many we did not. Impactful in its simplicity, allow plenty of time for this portion of the visit.
The Center also features a theater with a short video, and your visit through the building ends at the Wall of Tolerance. Guests can type their names on keyboards, signifying they pledge the following: “By placing my name on the Wall of Tolerance, I pledge to take a stand against hate, injustice and intolerance. I will work in my daily life for justice, equality and human rights – the ideals for which the Civil Rights martyrs died.”
—
Rosa Parks Museum
Rosa Parks Museum | 252 Montgomery St, Montgomery, AL 36104
Photos are not permitted in the Rosa Parks Museum, but a virtual tour is available here (note: virtual tours are on hiatus), which is a good thing because the museum holds so much information it’s nearly impossible to catch it all.
It’s also surprisingly high-tech, with many interactive videos and displays, including a video reenactment of the night Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat to a white man – all layered over a replica city bus to give the viewer the feeling of peering into the bus windows.
From there, visitors are taken through a timeline of the Civil Rights Movement, particularly as it pertains to Montgomery’s history. Admission is $7.50 for adults and $5.50 for children (at the time of writing), and a small discount is available if you choose to combine the main exhibit with the Children’s Wing.
—
National Memorial for Peace and Justice
National Memorial for Peace and Justice | 417 Caroline St, Montgomery, AL 36104
Don’t be like us.
Don’t visit the National Memorial for Peace and Justice on a Tuesday (the memorial is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays). While we were able to view the outdoor display from outside the walls and walk through the garden, the entire museum and access to the interior of the memorial are unavailable outside of opening hours.
A colleague visited a few days after our (non-)visit and declared it was worth returning to Montgomery solely to see. Noted.
—
Kress on Dexter
Kress on Dexter | 39 Dexter Ave Suite 304, Montgomery, AL 36104
Kress on Dexter seems to be in its infancy still, but the multipurpose space is worth a stroll. The most striking feature is the preserved slabs from the mounted, segregated water fountains located in the former department store. And the most captivating feature is an interactive oral history display in the building, where visitors can pick up a telephone located in a phone booth and record their story. Visitors are encouraged to pick up a set of provided headphones and listen to the stories of people from all places and all walks of life.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN MONTGOMERY
Prevail Union
Prevail Union | 39 Dexter Ave suite 102, Montgomery, AL 36104
Prevail Union is located right on the first floor of the Kress Building, making it a perfect stop for coffee while you’re downtown. If a pour-over wasn’t so tempting on that March day, I would have gone for the Alabama Stinger: a latte sweetened with local honey. Be sure to get one for me, promise?
—
Martha’s Place
Martha's Place | 7780 Atlanta Hwy, Montgomery, AL 36117
Only Martha’s Place could have hit the spot. It’s a short drive out of the heart of town, but this classic Southern buffet doesn’t let quantity stand in the way of quality.
Come hungry so you can try a little bit of everything! I’ll be over here, still dreaming of that perfect fried chicken…
—
Leroy
Leroy | 2752 Boultier St, Montgomery, AL 36106
It’s tough to find a good place to go out in Montgomery, particularly on a school night. The weekday nightlife in the city is practically non-existent, and that’s coming from someone who requires very little to have an enjoyable evening.
Thankfully Leroy exists. It’s the kind of place that’s filled with people who know each other well – or are about to know each other well. There are lots of local beers on offer and the cocktail list is pretty lengthy. Costs add up quickly if you’re drinking cocktails though, so be mindful as you order.
—
El Rey Burrito Lounge
El Rey Burrito Lounge | 1031 E Fairview Ave, Montgomery, AL 36106
Right around the corner from Leroy (and owned by the same folks) is El Rey Burrito Lounge. Mexican(ish) food wasn’t really what we had in mind for dinner in Montgomery, but the pickings were slim. Thankfully the meal was delicious! I’d recommend staying away from anything on a 12″ tortilla unless you haven’t eaten in three days; my burrito was about the size and weight of, well, a baby donkey.
WHERE TO STAY IN MONTGOMERY
Comfort Inn & Suites Eastchase
Comfort Inn & Suites Eastchase | 10015 Chantilly Pkwy, Montgomery, AL 36117
Lodging during our visit was quite expensive, so we went with an option that best fit our budget and met our needs in terms of safety and comfort: the Comfort Inn & Suites Eastchase. Downtown Montgomery is very quiet at night, so we weren’t terribly concerned with trying to stay in the middle of it all.
Truth be told, if we had to do it all again, we’d consider staying in nearby Auburn; as a university town, it’s bound to have a lot more going on after 5 p.m. than chain restaurants and movie theaters!
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: MONTGOMERY, ALABAMA
Montgomery is home to Montgomery Regional Airport, which serves Charlotte, Dallas/Fort Worth, Washington, D.C., Atlanta, and Orlando-Sanford. If you’re flying in from somewhere else, chances are you’ll be landing in Birmingham or perhaps Atlanta and making the drive in, which is fine because you’re going to want a car.
Parking in downtown Montgomery was pretty easy, but be sure to keep change on hand to feed the meters in case you park at one without a credit card slot. The meters in the locations where we parked our car featured prominent signs banning re-feeding the meter additional coins, which is apparently enforced using sensors that detect when a vehicle has left or remained. We prefer to park once and walk around, so this greatly impacted our ability to do so for more than two hours at a time.
Like many places in the South, locals are friendly and love to strike up a conversation with just about anyone – however, I’d caution anyone who thinks the wounds of racism have fully healed based on the large number of museums and memorials commemorating those who’ve fought with their lives for justice and equality. There is a palpable tension that hangs heavy in the humid air, and there is much work to be done. But knowledge has to be acquired before it can be shared, and Montgomery offers ample education in this regard – even if only visited for twenty-four hours.
Enjoyed this post? You may also like:
- Sunday Night in Birmingham
- A Visit to the U.S. Space and Rocket Center in Huntsville, Alabama
- Where Lost Luggage Goes: A Visit to Unclaimed Baggage in Scottsboro, Alabama
- Traveling Light: Alabama Road Trip Packing List
- Day Trip: New Orleans, Louisiana
- Day Trip: Lafayette, Louisiana
- Weekend Getaway Guide: Dunwoody, Georgia
- North Carolina High Country Winter Travel Guide: How to Make the Most of One Night in the Mountains
- Travel Guides by Destination
- My Travel Essentials
- Exclusive Discounts + Promo Codes
- All of My Personal Item Packing Lists
Have you visited Montgomery? What would you add to this list for a first-time visitor?
Definitely felt the tension in this review.
I am truly sorry for your discomfort!
You are definitely right about parking meters! Puts a cramp in visiting!
There is night life in Montgomery. Usually, around the Alley bar/ restaurant and the Hotels have music and other entertainment.
However, try a Thursday night at MMFA, open until 9 p.m .
Come back and see us.
Yet another “what to do in Montgomery” list that misses out on seemingly the best kept secret in Montgomery nightlife – – Sous La Terre. Located downtown on Commerce Street, this is a literal underground jazz club that doesn’t even get started until 1AM. Nights there go late! The thing you have to realize about Montgomery nightlife is that up until 10 or so years ago there were a lot of very restrictive city laws on certain types of alcohol and drinking establishments. That’s mostly changed now but it took time for the bars that are downtown to develop. For example the reason Sous La Terre was exempt all these years from having to close early is that it’s a private club you have to “join” to drink at “after hours”. Basically you show your ID and they give you a little paper card you sign your name on. Use the card every time you come back. If you go, get the blue drink!
I’m glad y’all made it to El Rey and Leroy though! Love both of those spots. For anyone reading this looking for stuff to do I’d also recommend Aviator Bar, 1048, the Harriot II riverboat (though watch out for the bugs in summertime), Pine Bar, Alley Bar, Central for an excellent meal, and my all-time favorite oyster bar/southern seafood/live music spot that looks like a shack on the river Capitol Oyster Bar.
Enjoy reading your reviews, but this one I definitely feel has missed the mark. Like Auburn, Montgomery is also a university town – Go Hornets! Maybe your adventures were short-sighted. I grew up about 2 hours from Montgomery and anticipated every visit. If you want to talk about an uneasiness, then I’ll be open to discuss Seattle. My experiences here are making me run back South for safety and sanity.