36 Hours in NYC: Lower Manhattan

I can’t believe it’s been more than five years since I stepped foot in NYC (well, I guess given the events of the last few years I technically can believe it – but considering Michael and I used to visit the city two or three times a year, it still feels strange).

A relatively inexpensive fare and perfect weekend warrior flight times were the reason for our return, just like before – but getting reacquainted with a city that’s ever-evolving and, on occasion, somewhat aloof proved to be a new challenge.

New York City is one of the greatest cities in the world, and its residents are proud to tell you so. But even New Yorkers can’t possibly explore everything their city has to offer in their entire lifetimes – so how can two travelers dare even try in a weekend?

Quite simply: we can’t.

But we can eat the elephant that is NYC one bite at a time.

One thing that makes planning a trip like this a little easier is the fact that we’ve already experienced so many of the city’s “musts.” But the other was a first for us: when planning this trip, we decided to zoom in on just one area on the map and stick to it. With a flight into Newark, a Manhattan-based trip made the most sense. And having never stayed below Midtown, well, we figured we ought to start downtown.

Choosing to limit this visit geographically paid off in unexpected ways. I knew it would help reduce time spent in transit, but I didn’t expect it to make planning easier. By giving ourselves fewer choices, we felt far less overwhelmed in the planning process. And once we were in the city, I felt like I got the chance to get to know the personalities of its neighborhoods a little more intimately.

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All of the places within this guide are located below 14th Street, and primarily situated in the neighborhoods of Chinatown, SoHo, the Financial District, and on the Lower East Side (perhaps one day I’ll create a Lower Manhattan Guide Part Two just for Tribeca and Greenwich Village!). Ready to explore?

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LOWER MANHATTAN FOOD + DRINK

The truth is, it would take you at least a week to eat your way around one square city block in Manhattan, so there's no use in trying to do it all. Instead - focus on those "only in New York" experiences, like classic dishes and (figuratively) eating your way around the world.

LOWER MANHATTAN RESTAURANTS

Heaven’s Hot Bagels

What a relief to enjoy a New York bagel without having to resort to making it yourself! This cozy bagel shop on Houston (that’s “House-ton”, not “Hyu-ston”) may be packed when you arrive, but staff swiftly work up everyone’s order. The menu of deli favorites can be a little overwhelming for a newbie since everyone else seems to already know their go-to; I recommend taking a peek at the menu ahead of time to figure out what you’re in the mood for. For me on this visit? Heaven’s Nova Lox – large enough to share!

→Heaven's Hot Bagels // 283 E Houston St A, New York, NY 10002

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Sonnyboy

If you didn’t have brunch while in New York, then were you really in New York? The late morning/early afternoon meal is practically an institution and one I always look forward to when visiting the city. This trip took us Down Under for an Australian-influenced brunch (stayed out all night? Have no fear, my late-sleeper. Weekend brunch is served ’til 5!). The menu toes the line of sweet and savory, breakfast and lunch – perfect for travel companions who have a difference of opinion. But if you’re asking my opinion, you should go for the harissa folded eggs.

→Sonnyboy // 65 Rivington St, New York, NY 10002

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Super Taste

I’m going to be honest – ordering at Super Taste was a little stressful. Everyone else seems to know the protocol (order first, and then sit – although I’m still confused by what you’re supposed to do when there are no empty tables, and how we ended up sharing a table with a stranger), which is the fastest way to feel like a tourist. Once the dumplings arrived, though, we felt much more at home. Next time I’d try to stall ordering a little longer to plan out our meal a little better – our tablemate’s noodle dish looked delicious – but we still left with happy bellies.

→Super Taste // 26 Eldridge St, New York, NY 10002

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Smør and Smør Bakery

With the exception of IKEA, Nordic food is hard to come by where I live (and it just might be that way where you live, too). Smør was founded by two Danes (coincidentally, both named Sebastian) who wanted to bring food from their birthplace to NYC. A lunchtime visit for smørrebrød is a must – as are reservations. Without a booking, we were faced with the choice between waiting for an hour or eating outside in the snow flurries (we chose the chill!). Afterward, satisfy your sweet tooth with a cardamom bun from Smør Bakery next door.

→Smør // 441 E 12th St, New York, NY 10009
→Smør Bakery // 437 E 12th St, New York, NY 10009

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Uncle Lou

Chinatown’s Uncle Lou restaurant somehow perfectly meshes an old-school, traditional Chinatown dining experience with all the trendy elements that make a restaurant ultra-popular these days. It’s the perfect place to bring a crowd (note: they accept reservations over the phone for groups of six or more), as diners are encouraged to share dishes using the Lazy Susans. And with more than 100 menu items, you’re going to want to try more than one thing. Portions are incredibly generous; Michael and I were sad to leave behind leftovers from our Pork in Yuxiang Garlic Sauce and Cantonese Style Mapo Tofu. If you’re splitting meals with a group, you can probably get away with ordering fewer entrees than the number of people.

→Uncle Lou // 73 Mulberry St, New York, NY 10013

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Scarr’s Pizza

The line for Scarr’s Pizza stretches outside of the building during the daytime, but at night? There’s no wait and there’s essentially a party going on inside (at least – judging from my Saturday night experience). While my partying days are long over, my pizza days are not – and Scarr’s Pizza elevates the humble by-the-slice experience by using quality ingredients like freshly milled flour and Greek olive oil. No, the Grandma Pie doesn’t feel like a traditional NY slice but eating it certainly doesn’t feel like a compromise to me.

→Scarr's Pizza // 35 Orchard St, New York, NY 10002

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LOWER MANHATTAN COFFEE + BARS + TREATS

Caffè Napoletana at Una Pizza Napoletana

By night, Una Pizza Napoletana serves up highly-rated Neapolitan pizzas – but come Saturday mornings, the pizzeria transforms into Caffè Napoletana. You’ll find a curated menu of Italian espresso and snacks (stand at the bar for an authentic Italian experience!)… and prices that feel a bit more New York than Italian.

→Caffè Napoletana at Una Pizza Napoletana // 175 Orchard St, New York, NY 10002

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Bad Habit Ice Creams

I had this post all nicely divided into the categories of “bars” and “sweets” – until I started writing about Caleta. During the day, the small Avenue A spot acts as an ice cream bar for Bad Habit. Come evening, the spot turns into a wine and tapas bar. My visit fell during the daytime, so Michael and I split a cup of tasty Burnt Basque Cheesecake ice cream (although, our neighbor to the right managed to order a glass of wine before the official switchover). Edit: It appears this spot is now solely considered the Bad Habit Ice Creams Scoop Shop.

→Bad Habit Ice Creams // 131 Avenue A, New York, NY 10009

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Pi Bakerie

This part of the city seems to cater more to the M-F banking crowd, so a spot for a Saturday afternoon coffee (necessary, when you’ve been up since 3:30 a.m.) is a little hard to come by. Thankfully this Greek cafe is open and ready to tempt you with its full espresso menu and cases of flaky pastries. Hungry for something more substantial? There are heartier dishes on the menu, too.

→Pi Bakerie // 35 Cedar St, New York, NY 10005

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Dreamers Coffee House

Dreamers Coffee House is a super cozy coffee shop just a few blocks from the Manhattan Bridge that serves ethically sourced coffee to the neighborhood. We were easily talked into adding one of their pastries, a pandan butter mochi cake, to our coffee order – and it very nearly stole the show.

→Dreamers Coffee House // 54W Henry St, New York, NY 10002

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The Chai Spot

A friend recommended The Chai Spot to me before this visit, and I’m so glad I listened. And as your new friend, I am now happy to recommend The Chai Spot to you, too (so you should listen!). Simply walking into this SoHo spot transports you across the globe, with fragrant teas and cozy ornamental rugs. It’s the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of the neighborhood, if only for a few moments.

→The Chai Spot // 156 Mott St, New York, NY 10013

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Cedar Local

This neighborhood cocktail bar’s menu leans a little more toward tequila and mezcal (which I obviously love). Delivery of your beverages takes a little longer than other bars because of the care that goes into preparing each one, but it’s definitely worth the wait. With more time (and more stomach space), I’d return for Happy Hour, when a burger and a beer are just $15.

→Cedar Local // 25 Cedar St, New York, NY 10005

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Reception Bar

Getting into Reception Bar isn’t easy, but for soju lovers, it’s worth the wait and you won’t mind cramming into the tiny space with seemingly everyone who lives on the block. Order one of their house-infused flavors or go for a fun cocktail like the Cereal Milk – which tastes like the milk left in your cereal bowl, but boozy.

→Reception Bar // 45 Orchard St, New York, NY 10002

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Michaeli Bakery

You’re definitely going to want one of everything at this Israeli-style bakery with its cases of rugelach, babka, and more. The timing of this visit called for one thing, though: the bakery’s melt-in-your-mouth hamentashen.

→Michaeli Bakery // 115A Division St, New York, NY 10002

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Mel The Bakery

Mel The Bakery is located right around the corner from Michaeli Bakery, so if you’re going to one, you have no excuse but to visit both (unless it’s a Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday when Mel is closed). You’ll be glad you did because wonderful rustic loaves and beautiful pastries are waiting for you.

→Mel The Bakery // 1 Ludlow St, New York, NY 10002

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Kossar’s Bagels & Bialys

You didn’t think we’d go to New York and only get one bagel, did you? Kossar’s is a New York institution, serving freshly baked bialys and bagels since 1936. Their LES shop was absolutely buzzing with takeout orders, so we jumped on line (not in line) to order a half-dozen to go. I highly recommend you do the same – or at least, place your order to have them shipped to your door.

→Kossar's Bagels & Bialys // 367 Grand St, New York, NY 10002

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LOWER MANHATTAN SIGHTS + ATTRACTIONS

You'll find departures for Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty here, but if you're looking for something a little less obvious (while still very much New York) - I've got you covered.

Overstory

But Alyssa – you just covered food and drink, and this is a rooftop bar. Yes, I know – and while Overstory is one of the rare rooftop bars with an incredible cocktail program (it doesn’t just rely on its incredible setting), the view is truly the reason to visit. During peak travel season, it’s probably best to make a reservation (but note the $50 minimum spend per person); a February Saturday evening only netted an hour wait, and they’ll text you when your spot is ready. The cocktails are expertly crafted and the indoor bar is a beautiful place to linger and escape the hustle of the city down below, the perfect precursor to stepping outside to take in the glittering city lights in all directions.

→Overstory // 70 Pine St 64th Floor, New York, NY 10005

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National Museum of the American Indian

Hardly anything is free these days – especially not in New York City. But the Smithsonian museums are one of our nation’s treasures, still open and freely accessible for all. The majority of the museum, education, and research complex giant’s museums are located in Washington, D.C., but the National Museum of the American Indian has an outpost right here in the city. Here you’ll find an abundant collection of indigenous artifacts from the Americas spanning thousands of years, a detailed look at Native New York, and a range of rotating exhibits. I know time is precious, but you’ll want to budget at least two hours here.

→National Museum of the American Indian // 1 Bowling Green, New York, NY 10004

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LOWER MANHATTAN SHOPPING

With only a backpack for luggage, this trip wasn't the full shopping spree it could have been - but even window shopping can be a wonderful way to spend time in NYC. All your favorite brands likely have a shop in these neighborhoods; here are a few recommendations based solely on this visit:

Chinatown Shopping

Chinatown offers ample shopping for everything from fresh produce to home goods – both categories I love browsing, but couldn’t hope to bring home with me. To save time and luggage space, pop into the East Broadway Mall. Here you’ll find independent designers like Untitled in Motion, vintage clothing at shops like James Veloria, and, well, old jewelry from places like OLD JEWELRY.

→OLD JEWELRY // 75 E Broadway #216, New York, NY 10002
→James Veloria // 75 E Broadway #225, New York, NY 10002
→Untitled in Motion // online only

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East Village Shopping + Lower East Side Shopping

Artful, eclectic, and just plain fun shops abound in these two neighborhoods. A few highlights from this trip: the coolest secondhand finds at 2nd STREET (wide range of brands and price points) and ENDING SOON (ultra-curated selection of vintage wear with a price to match). The chic, minimal-with-a-twist neutrals at Maryam Nassir Zadeh and 7115 by SZEKI. And a little bit of beautiful chaos at Coming Soon (housewares for the hip) and Videogamesnewyork (vintage games, and Michael’s dream shop).

→2nd STREET // 180 Orchard St Retail C, New York, NY 10002
→Maryam Nassir Zadeh // 123 Norfolk St, New York, NY 10002
→7115 by SZEKI // 157 Rivington St, New York, NY 10002
→ENDING SOON // 254 Broome St, New York, NY 10002
→Coming Soon // 53 Canal St, New York, NY 10002
→Videogamesnewyork // 202 E 6th St, New York, NY 10003

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NOLITA + SOHO Shopping

Here’s where you’ll find outposts for all your favorite online retailers. If you have plenty of time, you can zigzag the blocks of these neighborhoods, popping into the shops that catch your eye. But if you’re limited in the time department, you’ll just have to pick some favorites. Need help with recommendations? Here are four to get you started: L’Appartement Sézane and Polène for Francophiles – the former for gorgeous clothes, shoes, and accessories; the latter for status handbags on a sub-designer budget. The RealReal for gently used designer clothing. And Cult Gaia for those “whoa, that’s so clever!” designs.

→L’Appartement Sézane // 254 Elizabeth St, New York, NY 10012
→Polène // 487 Broadway, New York, NY 10013
→Cult Gaia // 60 Wooster St, New York, NY 10012
→The RealReal // 80 Wooster St, New York, NY 10012

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WHERE TO STAY IN LOWER MANHATTAN

When staying in NYC for only one night, your accommodations must be centrally located and easily accessible to public transit - in addition to being clean, safe, and comfortable. In planning for this trip, I found a property that has all of those features - minus the big-city pricing.

Hotel Mimosa

Over the years I’ve slowly shifted my accommodations preferences from home-share services (which aren’t quite what they used to be) to boutique hotels, which reflect the spirit of their cities while providing essential services for visitors. Ever mindful of value, particularly when I’m not planning on spending a significant amount of time at my hotel, I skipped the big-name hotels with big-city prices in favor of Chinatown’s Hotel Mimosa.

Hotel Mimosa is compact – even by NYC standards – but it has everything a traveler needs for a short visit. Decorated simply, the clean room contains a comfortable bed, a full-size bathroom, plenty of toiletries in case anything is forgotten, a clothing rack, a tidy desk and stool, and plenty of outlets for recharging. Despite being in the city that never sleeps, I slept soundly thanks to blackout curtains and thick-paned windows. Downstairs, staff at the 24-hour front desk are happy to check your luggage before check-in or after checkout, and the petite lobby offers a small seating area to rest or transfer your belongings from one bag to another.

But perhaps my favorite part of our stay at Hotel Mimosa is its commitment to sharing the vibrant surrounding neighborhood with its guests. At check-in or upon request, the hotel will provide an extended list of nearby restaurant suggestions, from the ones you’ll find in every city guide to a curated list of off-the-beaten-path spots. With such a local feel at an incredible price, Hotel Mimosa is a hidden gem itself – and one I’d recommend for travelers visiting the area for a short time.

→Hotel Mimosa // 79 Division St, New York, NY 10002

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WITH MORE TIME IN LOWER MANHATTAN

This section is always a little heartbreaking to write - because I simply want to experience everything a destination has to offer, and these are the things I've missed.

With more time in Lower Manhattan, I’d consider adding a visit to the Tenement Museum, walking across the Brooklyn Bridge, or checking out Essex Market. With more time, there are more places to eat (my favorite thing, if I’m being honest!). I’d love to check out Spicy Village, Balvanera, Jajaja Mexicana, Librae Bakery, and so much more. And maybe with a little more luggage space, do some shopping at oo35mm (now senti senti), Mara Hoffman (now closed), or check out a sample sale (or you know, wander into any place that catches my eye).

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: LOWER MANHATTAN

A book could be written about all the things you need to know before you visit NYC (oh wait - there already is one), but these are a few things I think you should know based on the neighborhood and things I've noticed since my last visit.

Flying into New York City for just one night is not for the faint of heart – and I’m probably in the minority of travel bloggers who would recommend doing so. No matter which airport you fly into, you’re looking at a minimum of an hour from the airplane door to the streets of Lower Manhattan – and if you’re relying on public transit like we do to save money, it can take even longer (although – depending on traffic, it might actually be faster to take the train and subway than a rideshare). But it quickly starts to feel worth it – as the fast-paced city streets match the fast pace of your trip.

The island of Manhattan narrows toward the bottom, making it a little easier for visitors to get around on foot – which you’ll want to do, as there’s something interesting around every corner. And as a visitor, I found that parts of Lower Manhattan we visited on this trip were pretty well-served by bus and subway (although I generally am inclined to walk anywhere less than a mile away).

One new addition to the city’s transit system since our last visit is OMNY, which will eventually fully replace the old MetroCards (I have mixed feelings about this: a little nostalgia for the old yellow cards, and gratitude for progress). There’s no need to register online ahead of time to use the new system – just tap your contactless payment method and walk through the turnstiles.

Make sure you are always using the same method of payment for every ride, whether that’s your credit card, mobile wallet, or wearable device. This will reap the most financial benefits, like free transfers and fare capping. While we used to have to purchase an unlimited weeklong transit pass, fares now cap at twelve rides. This means you’ll never spend more than $33 for a week of rides (the week starts on Monday and ends on Sunday – perfect for weekend getaways like this!).

Safety is something I’m always asked about, and though there were some points where we felt uncomfortable in the subway – scout’s honor – I never felt unsafe. Just as in every destination (including your own home city!) you need to keep your eyes open and your wits with you. Hold your head high, walk with intention, and don’t wear anything too flashy, and you’ll generally be left alone – very alone, in fact. It’s not unusual to walk into a shop or restaurant in the city and feel as if you’re being avoided or that people are too busy to help you. A visit to NYC is always a good refresher in asserting yourself!

As for how New York City is faring after the height of the pandemic, this visit felt eerily similar to all of our previous ones. Masks are not required in many places, although people do wear them. Indoor dining is back in full force, yet streeteries feel like they’re here to stay. Hand sanitizing stations are at every door, but many are empty. And despite this visit occurring on a sad, cold, February weekend, the bars, shops, and restaurants were all at capacity – a sign that this city is marching ever forward and continuing to evolve, as it has done for centuries. And truly, are any two visits to New York City ever expected to be the same?

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Have you ever traveled to explore just one of a city’s neighborhoods?

Which part of NYC should we visit next?