Have you heard it too? You casually mention that you’re considering a little getaway in the Southeast, and then they say, “Well, what about Asheville?”
Michael and I have heard this countless times over the past few years; suddenly it seemed like everyone was either planning a trip to the North Carolina city or had just returned from it. The only issue? You see, Asheville is just at what we consider our maximum driving distance; road-tripping there would eat up most of a day in both directions, and it’s a destination I would want to stay longer than just a day or so. Because we both work full-time jobs, time off is a precious resource and it can be frustrating to spend those hours riding along in a car.
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Thankfully, Asheville is home to a smaller, regional airport (more on that at the end of the post!), and I was both thrilled and surprised to find an inexpensive flight over the winter holidays.
We were fortunate to spend five nights in Asheville, and if you’re reading this, I hope you get to spend at least that much time in the North Carolina town as well. With so many days in the area, we really felt like we explored most of what the city has to offer, leaving just enough off of our itinerary to entice us back for a return journey.
Asheville pretty much has it all: nature within easy reach, a clean and walkable downtown area, and lots of events and cultural activities. Oh, and great food and beer, too! After exploring both the city and the surrounding areas, I’ve assembled the immersive city guide below to share what’s worth your time in Asheville (settle in – it’s a long read!):
WHERE TO EAT IN ASHEVILLE
Cúrate
Cúrate | 13 Biltmore Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
When planning meals for an Asheville getaway, Cúrate consistently tops every list. I’m usually wary when a place shows up that often in my search results, but the menu seemed so special that we gave it a go. No reservations were available the night we were considering, but we lucked into a spot at the bar which serves items from their vermuteria menu. I highly recommend the tabla de jamonés!
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French Broad Chocolate Lounge
French Broad Chocolate Lounge | 10 S Pack Square, Asheville, NC 28801
French Broad Chocolate Lounge makes a mean drinking chocolate – perfect for warming up your hands on a cold evening (a must during a December visit!). The vibe next door at the boutique is a bit more elevated, and the staff are happy to share samples of bars from the Chocolate Bar Library. A bar makes a lovely souvenir, as I learned first-hand!
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Plant
Plant | 165 Merrimon Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
Before you click away after reading about a vegan restaurant, you should know that Plant is endlessly creative and satiating enough to make my nearly carnivorous partner change his mind about vegetables. The vegan “cheese” platter can’t be missed. Call ahead for reservations, as we were unable to walk in on the evening we first selected.
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Hole Doughnuts
Hole Doughnuts | 168 Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806
Hole Doughnuts fries their doughnuts to order (and that’s probably all the convincing you’ll need), and I love that each doughnut is hand-cut and uniquely shaped. Go early for the largest selection!
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White Duck Taco Shop
White Duck Taco Shop | 12 Biltmore Ave, Asheville, NC 28803
Sadly the area around the River Arts District was flooded during our trip to Asheville and we were unable to visit White Duck Taco Shop‘s flagship location (I understand it’s the location to visit if you can!), but luckily the downtown location remained dry. Chances are you won’t find any of the items on a taqueria menu in Mexico, but just because they’re not authentic doesn’t mean they’re not worthy of your time. Offerings rotate, so come prepared for a taste adventure to the unknown!
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Buxton Hall BBQ
Buxton Hall BBQ | now closed
A visit to Buxton Hall BBQ (now closed) is a bit of an anomaly, as they serve up whole-hog barbecue (which is more prevalent in the eastern part of the state) in the western part. It’s not cheap, but good food isn’t cheap, and cheap food isn’t good. And if you arrive and there’s a wait? Pop over to the brewery next door!
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Biscuit Head
Biscuit Head | 733 Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806
Here’s another restaurant with oodles of reviews and recommendations: Biscuit Head. Arrive early if possible, as the line instantly grew to well out the door and around the corner shortly after we arrived! Perhaps not the best iteration of southern biscuits simply because of the sheer volume of customers (ours were a tad cold on their arrival at our table), but the selection of biscuit toppings and freshly brewed coffee made up for that. Plus, they have a rotating bacon of the day on the menu.
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Chai Pani
Chai Pani | 22 Battery Park Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
The secret is out, so expect a wait at this downtown favorite. Chai Pani specializes in Indian street food and has a small but well-curated menu. The butter chicken was too tempting to pass up, and the portion size was large enough to supplement Michael’s lamb sliders (which don’t come with a side). Oh, and by the way, if you go to Chai Pani and skip the Gulab Jamun, we are no longer friends.
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OWL Bakery
OWL Bakery | 295 Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806
So nice we went twice! OWL stands for “Old World Levain” and all of their breads are naturally leavened. I can’t recall ever having a sourdough croissant before and was enamored with the sharp tang of the pastry. While you’re here, make your future self happy by purchasing a loaf to enjoy back home.
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Sovereign Remedies
Sovereign Remedies | 29 N Market St #105, Asheville, NC 28801
Sovereign Remedies was the answer to our question of what to eat for dinner on a day we’d eaten a late lunch. Asheville restaurants close surprisingly early, but thankfully this hip cocktail spot has a nice little menu of treats. I ordered a salad and we shared an order of chicken skin chips, which were fascinating but far too rich to eat more than a few.
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Sunny Point Cafe
Sunny Point Cafe | 626 Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806
Sunny Point Cafe was one of my favorite meals while in Asheville and came highly recommended (thanks Lo!). We waited in the chilly drizzle of the morning for nearly an hour, but the complimentary coffee and chatter with other folks made it fly by. The carrot hotcakes are heavenly and the “Mighty Good Breakfast” is my recommendation for a way to try a little of everything.
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Taco Billy
Taco Billy | 201 Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806
I was a bit confused as to why Taco Billy wasn’t busy when we arrived, and then after we ordered it seemed like everyone in town showed up. The breakfast taco choices are solid and customizable, and I can’t wait to return to Asheville to try their lunch menu (edit: I’ve since had the chance to visit, and it’s just as incredible as the breakfast menu).
WHAT TO SEE + DO IN ASHEVILLE
Biltmore Estate
Biltmore Estate | 128 Approach Rd, Biltmore Forest, NC 28803
I hesitated to include this on my list as the experience we had at the Biltmore Estate was absolutely horrendous (the quick version: due to flooding in the area we were rerouted onto one-way roads through the property, spending hours stuck in our vehicle and still unable to access the house in the daytime hours, which is why there are no photos of the exterior), but I also know that our experience was not the norm.
Touring a large mansion is not everyone’s cup of tea and the cost of admission is steep (AAA offers discounts if you’re a member), so I’d recommend carefully weighing a visit. If the weather is nice, the estate could make for a lovely outing – there are so many cute animals to say hello to!
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River Arts District
River Arts District | Multiple Locations
Many of the galleries and workshops were closed on the Sunday afternoon that we visited, so I’d recommend exploring the River Arts District area on a different day of the week if you can. A few galleries were open, as well as the North Carolina Glass Center, where we were happy to relax and watch a glass-blowing class in progress.
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Shopping in Downtown Asheville
East Fork Pottery
East Fork Pottery | 15 W Walnut St, Asheville, NC 28801
East Fork Pottery was the place I was most excited to visit during our trip to Asheville, and I hope you’ll stop in, too. The pottery shop is a soothing oasis in the bustling downtown area, and though prices may be higher than you’re used to, everything is well-made and will last for years to come. Some things may not be the best to tote home in your luggage, but we squeezed in a small vase just fine.
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Old North
Old North | now closed
If I had to choose one shop to get dressed in each day it would be Old North (now closed). This little boutique on Walnut Street carries lots of brands I rarely see in stores like LACAUSA, Bridge and Burn, and Raleigh Denim. The shop is spacious and relaxing, and even offers a bit of seating if you feel the need to rest your feet for a few.
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Asheville Emporium
Asheville Emporium | 35 Wall St, Asheville, NC 28801
Do you feel obligated to bring someone a more traditional souvenir, but want to support local artisans at the same time? Asheville Emporium is a great place to accomplish both of those – not necessarily an easy feat when many little souvenirs aren’t even made in the same country you’re visiting. The store is divided into units by theme and even features a vintage clothing section.
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Asheville Bee Charmer
Asheville Bee Charmer | 32 Broadway St, Asheville, NC 28801
This honey shop is indeed charming (and it was definitely buzzing during our visit)! Asheville Bee Charmer carries more honey varieties than we knew existed, and so many different personal care products made from honey and beeswax. Feel free to sample away!
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Shopping in West Asheville
Firestorm Books & Coffee
Firestorm Books & Coffee | 610 Haywood Rd B, Asheville, NC 28806
There are so many unique finds in this progressive and inclusive bookstore, and you could easily spend hours pouring over the titles. Bring your own mug for a cheap cup of coffee, and check out their calendar for upcoming events taking place during your visit to Firestorm Books & Coffee.
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Flora
Flora | 428 B Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806
It’s clear to see the relaxing effect plants have on our demeanors, as the staff working at Flora seemed like they’d just emerged from a yoga session. In addition to offering plenty of beautiful plants and supplies, Flora also doubles as a coffee shop. We each enjoyed a brew from the barista and snagged a granola bar for our flight back.
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Local 604 Bottle Shop
Local 604 Bottle Shop | 604 Haywood Rd suite #2, Asheville, NC 28806
Local 604 Bottle Shop offers a few things on tap, but you’re probably here to take a six-pack to go. Sure, prices are a little higher than at the local breweries, but making your own six-pack is a great way to sample a lot of things at once – saving time (which is kind of like saving money!).
ASHEVILLE BARS + BREWERIES
Wicked Weed Brewing
Wicked Weed Brewing | 91 Biltmore Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
You’ve probably heard of this Asheville brewery, even if you’re not a beer geek. Wicked Weed Brewing is located a short walk from downtown (we stopped here after our evening at Cúrate) and houses a restaurant, tasting room, and bottle shop. Check the tap list before you go to see if your favorite will be available.
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Burial Beer Co.
Burial Beer Co. | 40 Collier Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
With morbid and ominous-sounding beer names such as “Deliver Us to Evil” and “Dawn for the Departed”, you won’t soon forget your time at Burial Beer Co. Though busy, the taproom had a relaxed vibe. There’s a full kitchen on-site; everything that walked past us looked and smelled amazing.
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The Funkatorium
The Funkatorium | 147 Coxe Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
The Funkatorium is Wicked Weed’s love letter to all beers sour. Even non-sour drinkers will appreciate the flavors behind each beer chosen for a flight. Just keep drinking water – some of these puckery beers are stronger than you think!
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Hi-Wire Brewing
Hi-Wire Brewing | 197 Hilliard Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
Though we’ve heard the Big Top location in Biltmore Village is the place to be, the South Slope location of Hi-Wire Brewing is much easier to loop into an Asheville brewery crawl. Chances are there’s something fun on tap – give it a shot!
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Wedge Brewing
Wedge Brewing | 37 Paynes Way, Asheville, NC 28801
Wedge Brewing is smack-dab in the middle of the River Arts District, perfect for grabbing a pint before exploring the galleries nearby. There’s plenty of outdoor seating when the weather is nice, and there’s almost always a food truck around if you get hungry.
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Little Jumbo
Little Jumbo | 241 Broadway St, Asheville, NC 28801
This guide is beer-heavy because the city is beer-heavy. Not a beer drinker? It’s okay, Little Jumbo has your back. This old-school cocktail lounge hasn’t been open very long, so please go before it gets too discovered. On your first visit, you’ll be required to pay a $1 “membership fee” and sign in with your ID card (this information is not provided on the website, so it was a bit surprising – edit: this was a North Carolina law at the time and has since been repealed). The cocktails are good and strong, and the bartenders really know their craft.
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Twin Leaf Brewing
Twin Leaf Brewing | 144 Coxe Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
Twin Leaf Brewing was really busy during our visit, perhaps because they were holding a beer and doughnut pairing at that time (sadly we passed on this pairing because we’d just eaten). The atmosphere was lively and they had a great acoustic performer with a crowd-pleasing set. Get the Luminosity if it’s available!
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Catawba Brewing
Catawba Brewing | 32 Banks Ave, Asheville, NC 28801
We weren’t expecting to visit Catawba Brewing, but with the wait at the BBQ place next door, we had our excuse to visit. They had some fun beers on draft during our visit, including one brewed with Nutella.
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One World Brewing
One World Brewing | 10 Patton Ave #002, Asheville, NC 28801
There are two locations of One World Brewing in Asheville, and we visited the downtown spot, located down an alley and downstairs. Don’t let the creepy bunker vibes scare you off – there are some solid beers and hangout opportunities here.
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White Labs Brewing Co.
White Labs Brewing Co. | 172 S Charlotte St, Asheville, NC 28801
Yes, the pizza at White Labs Brewing Co. is solid, but the beer was the draw. White Labs gives you the opportunity to try different styles of beer brewed with varying strains of yeast. The best way to do this is to order a flight so you can taste the nuances in a side-by-side tasting!
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Archetype Brewing
Archetype Brewing | 265 Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806
Admittedly, we mainly visited Archetype Brewing because it was a quick walk from our Airbnb, but it was not a bad place to end our evening. We had the brewery almost to ourselves, so we made use of their kids’ games and books selection and played “Where’s the Unicorn?” If you end up staying in West Asheville (and I hope you do!), it’s worth a stop in.
DAY TRIPS FROM ASHEVILLE
Cataloochee Ski Resort
Cataloochee Ski Resort | 1080 Ski Lodge Rd, Maggie Valley, NC 28751
Visiting in the winter? There are several ski resorts within a two-hour drive of Asheville. Ultimately we chose Cataloochee Ski Resort for the number of open slopes, but Wolf Ridge now Hatley Pointe was also a solid contender. The cost of skiing for a day is a bit steep, particularly during peak season. We paid a little under $100 each for lift passes and gear rentals after AAA discounts at Cataloochee Ski & Sports, located in Maggie Valley.
While the rental and payment process was really smooth and easy, next time I’d simply rent items at the resort. The lines for boot and ski rentals at the resort are much longer, but it was a pain to lug our skis and boots through the mud and back to the rental center in Maggie Valley. While you’re in the area, I implore you to stop at Haywood Smokehouse for some of the best barbecue I’ve had in a long time.
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Looking Glass Falls + Sliding Rock
Looking Glass Falls | US-276, Brevard, NC 28712 Sliding Rock | North Carolina 28768
These two natural waterfalls are an easy forty-five-minute drive from downtown Asheville. In the winter, Looking Glass Falls is said to shimmer in the sunlight, and in the summer, Sliding Rock is open for kids of all ages to slide down the natural waterslide. We were there on a chilly (but not frozen) winter morning, and our visit was still very rewarding.
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Blue Ridge Parkway
Blue Ridge Parkway
The Blue Ridge Parkway spans nearly 500 miles in North Carolina and Virginia, and it passes right around Asheville, making it the perfect way to get out and take a scenic drive. Be sure to check the road closure map before you head out, and choose a route as long or as short as your schedule allows.
TRAVEL TIPS FOR ASHEVILLE
Asheville Regional Airport (AVL) is served by only a few airports, and many of them are in Florida (which is how we lucked into a direct flight from Orlando!). Depending on your origin and airline, you’ll likely connect in Charlotte or Atlanta before arriving in Asheville. The airport is delightfully compact with only seven gates, which means you’ll be ready to explore the area as soon as you land. Although Lyft and Uber (those are my referral codes for credit you can use toward your first ride) are available in Asheville, I enjoyed having a car available at all times, even though it occasionally meant paying for parking downtown.
You’ll have plenty of boutique lodging options in and around Asheville, but I would recommend travelers who are staying for an extended period of time consider staying in the local-feeling neighborhood of West Asheville. We enjoyed our Airbnb, and the price ended up being about half of the cost of a hotel located downtown for the peak travel window. Asheville is a pretty compact city of neighborhoods, and driving across town from one neighborhood to another never took more than 15 minutes.
Asheville is sometimes called “The San Francisco of the East,” and it’s true that the city feels more progressive than other Southern cities. Sadly, rural parts of the state that are a short drive from the city center may not always be the most LGBTQIA+ and BIPOC-friendly places. I hope for a future where these warnings are not needed.
FINAL THOUGHTS ON VISITING ASHEVILLE
While it’s true that Asheville has lost a little bit of its quirky, hippy personality over the years, you still can find the city’s artistic spirit if you know where to look. Traditional arts and crafts are still flourishing here, but there’s now an added layer thanks to Asheville’s vibrant culinary scene.
Now that I live in Charlotte, Asheville is a city I’m glad to return to over and over again. I think after just one visit, you’ll want to do the same.
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Questions for you:
Are you planning a trip to Asheville soon?
What are you most looking forward to seeing/doing/eating?
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Thanks for sharing! I’m always looking for more activities to do for when I visit Asheville
I can’t wait to get back to Asheville. Thanks for sharing!
Asheville is so amazing! Thanks for this
I love this city so much! Sad to see some of these places now closed like Buxton 🙁
thanks for this i am gonna hit weekend this week and mike gave this link to me
I hope you have the best time in Asheville!