Have you ever arrived at a destination with a sinking feeling?
As the verdant green mountains and sparkling turquoise waters of San Juan came into view from my window seat, only thoughts of “I’ve made a huge mistake” echoed in my mind.
However, it wasn’t the prospect of exploring San Juan for the first time that filled me with regret; rather, it was the realization that my time on this enchanting island would be far too short to fully indulge in all the experiences on my extensive list.
This guide is not sponsored but includes hosted experiences and commissionable links. As always, all opinions are my own.
I have been begging Michael to go to Puerto Rico for years. Access to the island was much more convenient when we lived in Florida, and just like how most people don’t visit museums and attractions in their hometown because “they’ll still be there tomorrow,” we felt compelled to visit other destinations first.
And then we moved to North Carolina, which offers fewer flights to the island with less competition between airlines and higher fares (that’s changing soon, though, Charlotte friends!).
After years of late-night searching on Google Flights, I spotted a flight with a fare that matched our schedule and budget, and soon we were off to explore San Juan for the weekend.
Equipped with a self-made itinerary curated over years of reading and dreaming about the island, we set off for one of the most magical trips in recent memory – and, naturally, a deep desire to return over and over again.
If you’re here, it’s likely because you’re dreaming of a visit, too. Let’s turn those dreams into reality:
ABOUT SAN JUAN
San Juan’s history is complex and often challenging, combining indigenous heritage, European colonization, and centuries of cultural exchange. Long before the arrival of European explorers, the island of Puerto Rico was inhabited by the Taíno people. These indigenous inhabitants lived in harmony with the lush tropical landscape, cultivating crops, crafting intricate pottery, and developing a rich cultural heritage. However, the arrival of Spanish explorers in the early 16th century marked a profound shift in the island’s history. Led by Juan Ponce de León, the Spanish established the settlement of Caparra in 1508, to the west of the modern city of San Juan. This period of colonization brought disease, displacement, forced servitude, and violence, leading to the decline of the Taíno population and the imposition of Spanish rule.
The Taíno cultural legacy endured, influencing the language, cuisine, and traditions of Puerto Rico. Over the centuries, San Juan evolved into a vibrant colonial city strengthened by its iconic fortifications, El Morro and San Cristóbal. In 1898, following the Spanish-American War, Puerto Rico, including San Juan, came under United States control as part of the Treaty of Paris, marking a new chapter in the city’s history. This transition brought about significant changes to San Juan’s political and social landscape, as the city became a strategic outpost for the United States in the Caribbean. Despite this shift in sovereignty, San Juan’s cultural identity remained resilient and diverse, blending Spanish, African, and indigenous influences with American influence.
Throughout its history, San Juan has weathered hurricanes, earthquakes, and wars, yet it has emerged as a thriving cultural and commercial hub in the Caribbean. From the colorful streets of Old San Juan to the bustling neighborhoods of Condado and Santurce, San Juan continues to enchant visitors with its culture and undeniable charm.
WHY VISIT SAN JUAN?
Flying to San Juan from the mainland U.S. is a breeze – just like any other domestic destination, Americans don’t need a passport to enter. When traveling for just a weekend, it’s a great benefit to be able to skip the lengthy process of clearing Border Control (though you will have to go through a quick Customs and Agriculture inspection).
But that’s just how you get to and from San Juan – what about after you arrive?
San Juan offers more cultural, natural, and culinary opportunities than a visitor could even dream of. With a perfect blend of old-world charm and modern amenities, this city is the perfect introduction for travelers seeking the heart and soul of Puerto Rico.
A weekend is not enough time to see and explore it all, but it’s a start. Today I’m sharing my first-timers guide to San Juan, prioritizing local experiences and cuisine.
A note for my regular readers: my visit to San Juan was about the same number of days as most of the other destinations on this website, but expect this guide to be much longer! I recommend pouring yourself a piña colada before you begin reading (the drink was invented in Puerto Rico, after all). Salud!
THINGS TO DO IN SAN JUAN
Wander Old San Juan
With limited time, Michael and I opted not to visit El Morro (shocked? It’s okay to skip things that are on others’ “must-do” lists but not your own), and instead spent hours wandering the old city and soaking in the atmosphere.
Cobblestone streets, vibrant architecture, and weatherworn Garitas define the Old San Juan cityscape, and it’s no wonder this part of the city has become a popular backdrop for photographers. Don your most comfortable shoes, grab your camera, and head out for a leisurely stroll. Don’t forget to look up and down (those cobblestone streets are uneven at times!).
I’m always content to see what’s around the next corner and decide if I want to amble that way, but if you prefer a little direction for your wanderings, here are some great spots to loop into your walk:
- The Paseo de la Princesa, a scenic promenade crowned by the iconic fountain Fuente Raíces
- San Juan Bautista Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in the U.S.
- “I Love PR” Signs, which can be found here
- Plaza Felisa Rincón De Gautier, for benches with shade trees
- Mural of the Puerto Rican flag, on Calle Imperial
Old San Juan is also where you’ll find my next recommendation, but only on Saturday mornings…
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Enjoy the freshest produce and products
On Saturday mornings you’ll find Mercado Agrícola Natural alongside Museo de las Américas (if you’re arriving by Uber, I recommend setting the museum as your destination). Here, vendors line the sidewalks with booths full of fresh produce, prepared foods, and other homemade products.
As travelers without a kitchen or means to wash and prepare fresh greens and fruits, we still found plenty at the market to enjoy. A just-squeezed juice and an empanadilla is the perfect cure for a late night out (ask me how I know). Mercado Agrícola Natural is open Saturdays from 8 a.m. until noon.
→Mercado Agrícola Natural // 1955 C. Beneficencia, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
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Experience the local art scene
The Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (Museum of Puerto Rican Art) is housed in such an impressive building that it is hard to believe it was once a hospital. Yet right in the San Mateo subbarrio is a diverse collection of Puerto Rican art spanning centuries of artistic expression, giving visitors the chance to take a captivating journey through local art history.
In addition to its impressive permanent collection, the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico hosts rotating exhibitions, educational programs, and community events that celebrate and promote the arts. Take a look at the calendar to see if any events spark your interest during your stay in the city.
Don’t leave without spending a few minutes in the sculpture gardens behind the museum (if it’s not too hot!). Inside or out, this museum serves as an inspiring setting for art enthusiasts and casual visitors alike to explore, learn, and appreciate the beauty of Puerto Rican art. Admission to the gardens is free; current admission prices for the galleries can be found here.
→Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico // 299 Avenida José de Diego, San Juan, 00909, Puerto Rico
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Drink in Puerto Rico’s oldest distillery
Just twenty minutes from Old San Juan is Puerto Rico’s oldest distillery – and chances are, it’s not the rum brand you most associate with the island. After studying the art of craft spirits in France, Pedro Fernández returned to Puerto Rico to apply those same principles to rum. Soon, Ron del Barrilito (meaning “rum from the little barrel,” referencing the tiny casks Fernández aged his rum in) was born. The rest, as they say, is history… but why haven’t we heard of this brand before?
After nearly a century and a half, Ron del Barrilito has expanded its production and its footprint, including distribution outside of Puerto Rico and the launch of onsite rum experiences. Michael and I hailed an Uber to the town of Bayamón to take part in the distillery’s Rum Tasting Tour, but before the tour even began, we had the chance to choose a craft cocktail from the impressive menu. The Traveler and the Floral Oak were the perfect introduction to the spirit, each expertly prepared before our eyes.
After savoring our cocktails, we were called to the entrance to meet for our tour. This sixty-minute tour starts with an informative stroll through Hacienda Santa Ana to learn the legacy of the Fernández family before heading to the distillery to learn how rum is made and to stroll the aisles of the spirit aging in barrels. The dates stamped on each made for a fun impromptu scavenger hunt – some of the rums aging inside are older than I am!
True to its name, the tour concludes with a tasting in an air-conditioned (!) tasting room. Our tour guide led us through the brand’s rums, from the base level Two Stars (best in cocktails) to the crown jewel of the collection, the Five Stars (at $750+ per bottle, it’s the type of rum you bring out for very, very special occasions). Moving down the line, the rum grew more and more refined, challenging everything I thought I knew about the spirit. With limited quantities of the Five Stars rum, this just might be a “now or never” travel experience. Reservations are highly recommended; in accordance with Puerto Rico’s drinking age, all participants must be 18+.
→Ron del Barrilito // Edmundo B Fernández Inc, PR-5, 00960, Puerto Rico
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Pick out a (wearable) souvenir
For me, shopping is not the travel draw it once was, so a retail stop must be pretty unique in order for me to wander in. In San Juan, three shops fit the bill:
At CALETA Locally Made, watch artisans at work while you shop locally-made jewelry. I landed on one of their handcrafted leather bracelets, which they kindly adjusted to fit my wrist in just a few moments while we chatted about the city’s restaurant scene.
With a curated selection of linen sets, Moni & Coli is the perfect spot to pick out a vacation outfit. It was far too hot on the day of my visit to even think about trying on clothes, but the gorgeous selection was still fun to browse.
Try and you still won’t miss Collective Request, a boutique in a bright pink building in Old San Juan. The clothing selection here is lovely, but the accessories steal the show. Don’t miss Men Collective, just up a flight of stairs.
→CALETA Locally Made // 70 Calle Caleta de San Juan, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico →Collective Request // 159 C. de la Luna #1, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico →Moni & Coli // 1762 C. Loíza #3a, San Juan, 00911, Puerto Rico
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN SAN JUAN
A James Beard Semifinalist in an unexpected place
You’d never know it, but tucked in the back corner of the Miramar Food Truck Park is a James Beard Semifinalist. Chef Ruben Guzman of Leña Eh was nominated in early 2024 in the category of Best Chef: South, and once you order from the piping hot open-fire grill, you’ll see why.
The star of the show here is the Choripán, a locally-made chorizo topped with zingy chimichurri and shoved into a brioche bun flooded with puddles of butter that have collected in the bottom. An order comes with two, and it’s more than enough decadence for two people to share. The fries pale in comparison, but honestly, so would anything else.
Grab a drink from the bar and explore the other food trucks if you’re still hungry (I regret being too full to do so, so have something extra for me!). If you’re lucky, you may get to enjoy some live music while you fuel up for the rest of your evening activities at nearby bars.
→Miramar Food Truck Park // 1006 Av. de la Constitución, San Juan, 00907, Puerto Rico
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Take a chance on a no-reservations restaurant
Unintentionally, another James Beard nominee appears in this guide: Chef Gabriel Hernandez of Verde Mesa (Green Table). As San Juan’s first farm-to-table restaurant, this chic restaurant is an ideal spot for the traveler looking to dine truly local.
The restaurant interior is cool and glimmering, and despite standing on a busy Old San Juan street, it feels hidden and secluded (like being in a cave, if a cave were sunlit and ornately decorated). Verde Mesa famously doesn’t accept reservations, but arriving at opening time on a Saturday allowed us to be seated right away. From the start, the service here is exceptional – almost too good – and our water glasses were never empty.
Not used to dining at such an early hour, we skipped over some of the delicious-sounding appetizers and botanical elixirs, diving straight into our main courses. Our Moroccan-style entrees complemented one another beautifully, and I appreciated our server preemptively bringing over extra plates so we could share. As usual, we squabbled a bit over who chose the better item, but of course, I did (though Michael disagreed once more while reading this).
Be sure to save room for Verde Mesa’s iconic Purple Cloud dessert, which features a mountain of whipped cream studded with airy meringue and tinted purple with berry compote. You might not be able to finish it (it’s a lot of dairy for the stomach on a hot day), but you’ll be so glad you tried. No reservations.
→Verde Mesa // 107 Calle Tetuan Esq, C. San José, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
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An elevated take on Puerto Rican cuisine
Good things come in threes, right? Helmed by James Beard award winner Chef Natalia Vallejo, Cocina al Fondo strives to bring local flavors and ingredients to the table. It’s always delightful to see elevated versions of the local cuisine, especially in the most welcoming and approachable setting.
I have no idea what the restaurant looks like inside, but the patio space feels a lot like sharing a meal in a friend’s backyard. Fruit trees drape over the softly lit dining area (causing a small ruckus when a mango dropped suddenly and a fellow diner practically tackled it to claim it), and mismatched tables and chairs added to the ambiance. Service was warm and friendly without being overbearing or hovering, just how I prefer.
Our meal began – as all meals should, in my opinion – with a great cocktail. The Torito + Plata combined red pepper and citrus with tequila in a way I’ve never experienced before. It paired perfectly with the Chicharrones de Pollo (chicken chicharron – kind of like your favorite fried chicken but with the crispiest skin) Michael selected, cutting through the fat.
For our mains, we both veered away from our predictable choices a bit, which was a pleasant surprise. Michael’s rice and rabbit dish was a hit, and my pork loin “empanada” was actually more of a schnitzel. Unexpected, sure, but delicious. Dessert is a must, especially when chocolate and hazelnut are involved. Reservations are highly recommended.
→Cocina al Fondo // 658 C. San Juan, San Juan, 00907, Puerto Rico
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Finally, some mofongo
I can’t believe it took me days (plural!) to have the chance to try mofongo in Puerto Rico. Not only that, I had to actively seek out the most popular dish on the entire island to even taste it. Never one to let an opportunity pass me by, Michael and I hit the streets of Old San Juan on our last full day in the city to find a spot serving it up quickly and on the cheap.
While you can easily find decadent versions of mofongo stuffed with meat and seafood in generous portions for $20+; with only three hours until dinner, it made the most sense to go the simple route. El Jibarito fit the bill for us perfectly, with a hearty portion of unadorned mofongo available to purchase for takeout. While we waited for our order, we surveyed the dining room crowd of mostly locals, enjoying a down-to-earth good meal.
But what is mofongo? Everyone has their own recipe, but at its core, this Puerto Rican staple is a mix of mashed fried green plantains with garlic, oil, and (sometimes) chicharrón. Starchy and flavorful, it’s a dish full of comfort. If I had to compare it to anything, I would say you might consider it a cousin of mashed potatoes (if your mashed potatoes were a little crispy and had pork rinds in them).
→El Jibarito // 280 Sol St, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
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A meal worth celebrating
I have an entire post dedicated to Marmalade headed your way soon, so I won’t spend as much time writing about this essential Old San Juan restaurant in this guide. But I will say that Marmalade lives up to the hype, and deserves its spot on every San Juan list of recommendations.
Cathedral-like interiors with modern furniture set the scene for an incredible procession of courses. The set menu guides diners through the meal, creating their own epicurean journey by selecting an option from each page. This is where Michael and I delighted in predicting which item the other would order from the list, and being right each time thanks to fifteen years of history together.
I can’t think of a better way to honor San Juan’s present and its future than with a celebration meal at Marmalade – find my full review of the restaurant experience here.
→Marmalade // 317 C. de la Fortaleza, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
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San Juan Coffee Shops
If you’re used to drinking filter coffee at home, it’s time to switch to espresso beverages, because you’re very unlikely to find it on the menu at most establishments in Puerto Rico (not sure what to switch to? An Americano is your closest bet, or you may occasionally find cold brew on the menu). My go-to during our time in the city was a Cortadito, which is espresso “cut” (hence the name!) with milk at about a 50-50 ratio. Here are a couple of standout coffee shops from my visit:
Café con Cé, which offered the full hipster coffee shop experience, down to the selection of vegan pastries and unique finds from local artists. In addition to visiting twice and making friends with one of the cats out front, I also picked up a bag of locally grown and roasted beans as a souvenir (I recommend you do the same!).
La Coffeetera, which is equal parts brunch spot and coffee shop. We made use of both sides of La Coffeetera by sipping on cortaditos while waiting for a takeout breakfast to fuel up for our day of hiking in El Yunque (but that’s a story for a different post!).
What I wouldn’t give to have a walkup window like the one at Cafe Nineteen in my Charlotte neighborhood… This tiny Santurce spot sends out perfectly executed coffee drinks from inside, and from the looks of it, simple and tasty menu items, too.
→Café con Cé // 1765 Loíza Street, 624 Calle Cerra, San Juan, 00911, Puerto Rico →Cafe Nineteen // 1952 C. Loíza, San Juan, 00911, Puerto Rico →La Coffeetera // 1953 McLeary Ave, San Juan, 00911, Puerto Rico
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San Juan Bars and Nightlife
La Factoría has only been around for about a decade, but this labyrinthine bar (or rather, a series of bars) has climbed its way to the top of practically everybody’s San Juan nightlife list. And you know what? It deserves the attention it has garnered. There’s a bar here for every type of bargoer, from a salsa bar with a packed floor of strangers twirling each other around to one with pulsing electronic music you can feel in your veins to a tucked away speakeasy. Find your usual vibe or shake things up a bit. La Factoría is open every day, but lines form on the weekends.
Fair warning, it might take a while to flag down a bartender for a cocktail at Machete (it appears to help if you are strikingly beautiful, which explains why I stood waiting at the bar for a solid fifteen minutes and Michael… never snagged the bartender’s attention at all), but once you do, you’ll appreciate the handcrafted cocktail even more. Hang inside and soak up the youthful vibes, or pour your drink in one of the plastic cups by the door to take it to-go, dealer’s choice.
For more casual hangs on the streets of Santurce, head to Esquina El Watusi or La Placita. The former is a corner store serving up cocktails and beer to go so you can quickly get back to hanging out on the street outside. La Placita (The Little Place) is somewhat legendary among locals as a hub for nightlife, and a downpour on the night of our visit did little to curb the desire to dance in the streets. This square of bars and clubs surrounding a daytime market comes alive at night, although only until 2 a.m. thanks to a curfew launched in 2023. If, after a while, you decide you want to escape the nightlife at La Placita for a bit, you can always head around the corner to Jungle Bird. By the same owners of La Factoría, it’s a bit of a tiki bar oasis in the sea of dancing people, serving well-made cocktails in lush surroundings.
No matter where you choose to spend your Friday or Saturday night in San Juan, do so safely. Don’t drink and drive, and always use your city smarts.
→Esquina El Watusi // 801 Cll Elisa Cerra #829, San Juan, 00907, Puerto Rico →Jungle Bird // 254 C. Canals, San Juan, 00907, Puerto Rico →La Factoría // 148 C. de San Sebastián, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico →La Placita // La Placita de Santurce, 1348 C. Jose M. Raffucci, San Juan, 00907, Puerto Rico →Machete // 1 Calle Cerra #714, San Juan, 00907, Puerto Rico
WHERE TO STAY IN SAN JUAN
I’m thrilled to share not one, but two great properties with you today. Both are beautiful and I highly recommend each, but it’s up to you to choose the hotel that suits your style best:
An oasis in Santurce
For a boutique hotel experience on a budget, look no further than Santurce’s Dream Inn. This eye-catching hotel in a hip location offers a design-forward stay without sacrificing comfort and amenities. The rooms are outfitted with everything travelers need, and a few great extras: beach towels, coolers, sunscreen, and more. Eco-minded travelers will appreciate that sustainability is at the heart of the hotel’s practices, seen firsthand via refillable bath products, solar-heated showers, and a water-filling station in the lobby (not to mention the building’s conscious design, which filters and and light!).
Beyond the room, Dream Inn’s rooftop deck is perfect for lounging while enjoying spectacular views of the city below. If it gets too hot, you can always make your way down to the pool to cool off!
Looking for more? You can read more about what to expect during a stay at Dream Inn in my dedicated review.
→Dream Inn // 2009 McLeary Ave, San Juan, 00911, Puerto Rico
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A hotel in the heart of it all
At a slightly higher nightly rate, El Colonial in Old San Juan offers one particular amenity that justifies the price.
Are you ready for it?
An open bar.
Yes, the lobby bar is stocked with liquor, wine, and beer, and staffed by a bartender ready to make you a drink. You’ll make use of this amenity from the start, as guests are warmly greeted with a welcome drink of rum and passionfruit to enjoy in the lobby while your bags are brought up the stairs (there’s no elevator) to your room.
Rooms are simply decorated, allowing the weatherworn doors and beautiful tile floor of our Juliette Balconet room to shine. But I think it’s fair to say that the best parts of staying at El Colonial are all outside of the room. The rooftop deck is a splendid place to relax with a cold beverage, drinking in the views of Old San Juan and the port. Cozy nooks with seats and tables are scattered throughout the hotel, ready to be enjoyed while reading the paper. And then there’s the bar itself, which acts as a place to meet and spark connections with other guests.
All of this comes with a stipulation, of course: Guests must be 23 and up to stay here.
My full review of El Colonial is forthcoming – keep an eye on the blog to see when it goes live!
→El Colonial // 312 C. de San Francisco, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
WITH MORE TIME IN SAN JUAN
Can I be honest with you? My list of places still left to visit in San Juan is longer than my list of places I visited in the city, which can only mean one thing: I need to return! For the sake of this post, I’ll try to tighten my list down a little bit:
- Attractions such as the market at La Plaza del Mercado de Santurce, touring La Fortaleza, spending a day at a local beach, visiting Museo de las Americas, and exploring the city’s forts
- Relaxing in cafes and restaurants like Café Botánico, Bebo’s Café, Café Comunión, Casita Miramar, La Alcapurria Quemá, and Celeste
- Shopping at cute boutiques including La Tigre and LUCA
- Ending the night at bars like Botánico, La Taberna Lúpulo, Deshistoria: Birra & Empanadas, Pio Pio, La Penúltima, and El Bar Bero
- Heading out to explore more of the main island, and hopping on a ferry to visit Culebra and Vieques
As always, be sure to leave a comment and let us know if you make it to any of these spots before I do!
TRAVEL TIPS FOR SAN JUAN
While I could probably write an entire blog post on travel tips for this incredible city, an abbreviated list will have to do:
The best time to visit San Juan
Well, that depends on your priorities. With milder temperatures, winter is high season on the island, and many people flock to the city to escape their snowy homes. This comes at a cost of course – you should expect high prices to match the quantity of visitors.
Shoulder season is always my preferred time to visit any destination, bringing relatively comfortable weather and gentler fares. If you’re like me, April and May are your best bets.
Low season coincides with hurricane season, so if you’re looking for rock-bottom prices, summer is your time to visit (just be prepared for high temperatures and lots of rain!).
How to get to San Juan
Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport is easily reached by many destinations in the Americas (including, of course, many of its Caribbean neighbors). It is also a common port of call on Caribbean cruises, though typically those arrive and depart on the same day. Arriving by car? Several major highways flow right into the city, from all corners of the island.
Getting around the city
I have great news: you don’t need a car to get around San Juan.
I have less great news: public transit is unreliable.
Uber should by and large be your transit method of choice when exploring San Juan, and I highly recommend exploring neighborhood by neighborhood to keep your transportation costs down. As cell service is widely available in the city (and your service should be covered if you’re coming from the U.S.), Uber is generally convenient and reliable – but we did encounter a few exceptions to the rule. The first UberX (the cheapest option) requested at the airport showed an estimated arrival time of 52 minutes with a price of $35. We quickly canceled and rebooked an Uber Comfort, which had dropped in price and arrived just a few moments later.
Situations like this occurred several times over the weekend, though the rest of any canceled trips were at the choice of the driver. When this happened, I found that upgrading to Uber Comfort or Uber Black was worth spending a few extra dollars.
To add another layer of complexity, I noticed that while in Puerto Rico, the Uber app often refused to find the destination location by name (regardless of whether I typed the name in Spanish or English). I often resorted to typing in the exact address or a nearby destination to get us close to our desired destination.
I’m sure I overuse the phrase “[name of city] is a city of neighborhoods,” but it applies to San Juan, as well. The city is divided into many barrios and subbarrios, and as a weekend visitor, you certainly won’t have time to explore them all. The destinations in this guide largely fall into the neighborhoods of Viejo San Juan and Santurce (Ocean Park, Miramar, Gandul, Condadito, etc.).
Language and culture
Or rather, lenguaje y cultura.
While the U.S. as a whole does not have an official language (it’s true!), Puerto Rico’s official languages are Spanish and English. That tracks with my experience in San Juan; with the exception of popular restaurants and attractions, most conversations begin in Spanish before transitioning to English.
In the city, most of the people I interacted with spoke enough English for us to order or ask a question (Michael and I both understand and speak some Spanish, though his is better than mine), but I recommend brushing up on your Spanish before you go.
When entering any establishment, it’s a courtesy to greet the staff with a buenos días or buenas tardes (or a shortened buenas, if you’re not sure what time it is!), and to always say por favor and gracias. Now is also a good time to mention that businesses in Puerto Rico don’t necessarily run on a strict schedule like on the mainland, so don’t get upset if you arrive to find a business closed during their posted open hours. Just take it as an opportunity to visit another business on your list.
Lastly, if you know anything about Puerto Rico’s history and relationship with the U.S., you’ll understand why you may see graffiti with phrases like “Gringos go home.” It is an immense privilege to visit this destination domestically, and it’s important to not ignore the financial and environmental impact of multinational corporations as well as the effect of gentrification from wealthy foreigners and mainlanders moving in and driving up housing costs. Take the time to learn from and listen to locals, if they decide to share.
Safety
For obvious reasons, I can’t guarantee your safety at any destination you visit. But (!) I can honestly say that I never encountered a situation where I felt unsafe in San Juan. From exploring Old San Juan during the day to a late-night street party at La Placita, I never encountered any issues.
It’s pretty well publicized at this point, but in case you haven’t encountered this information before, I feel obligated to reiterate: do not take photos of La Perla.
You may have seen this magnetic neighborhood featured in the music video for Despacito, and it’s easy to see why so many are drawn to the colorful maze of houses and buildings (it’s also incredibly easy to wander into, as we nearly did without realizing a couple of times). However, this neighborhood is just that – a neighborhood – and should be respected as people’s private residences. It is also a well-known spot to source drugs, and for that reason, you should also not take photos.
If you decide to visit La Perla, do so during the day, don’t take any photos, be respectful of the people around you, and if anyone asks you to leave, go. Does it sound dramatic to put so many stipulations on visiting a neighborhood in San Juan? You be the judge.
As for other health and safety concerns, be sure to wear sunscreen and stay hydrated (the sun is fierce!). Leave your high heels at home – Puerto Rico’s streets and sidewalks are not always smooth and flat. My packing list is coming soon, but in the meantime, close-toed shoes or stable sandals are a great choice.
Money matters
My largely U.S.-based audience will appreciate that Puerto Rico’s currency is the U.S. Dollar. Most places accept credit cards as well as mobile pay, but it’s not universal – and even then, a minimum spend may be required. To save time at your destination, visit your local bank or ATM to withdraw cash to have on hand (bonus points for having small bills!).
Tipping culture mirrors that of the mainland, and you should expect to leave a 15-20% tip on restaurant/bar bills and to tip your Uber/taxi driver and tour guides. Keep a few small bills handy for places that don’t accept credit cards.
Prices for hotels, restaurants, and tours are comparable to most larger American cities. Generally speaking, I would budget around $10 for a quick-service meal, $13 for a craft cocktail, $15-20 for an entree at a mid-range restaurant, and upwards of $100-200 for fine dining. Of course you can find cheaper options, but I would plan your travel budget around these numbers so you don’t face sticker shock.
What about transportation? For the duration of our time in San Juan, three nights plus our trip to and from the airport, our total Uber cost (including tip) was $152.53. Prices ranged from $5.17 for a short daytime trip to $27.45 for an Uber Comfort from the airport.
Responsible travel
Is there such a thing as ethical travel? Almost certainly not. It’s no secret that travel consumes a large amount of resources, but we can do our best to travel as responsibly as reasonably possible. During your visit to San Juan, prioritize supporting local businesses, dining at places that source food from the region, staying at non-chain hotels, tipping generously, and watching your waste.
Tap water in Puerto Rico has to adhere to the same standards as the mainland U.S., and unless an advisory is in place, is generally regarded as safe to drink (so fill up your reusable bottle whenever you have the chance!). As for the other type of waste (we’re all friends here, right? Right?), your hotel or rental should advise you whether or not to throw your toilet paper in the toilet. When in doubt, toss it in the bin or ask your host. I mean, it’s far less embarrassing than the alternative…
FINAL THOUGHTS ON VISITING SAN JUAN FOR THE FIRST TIME
I have just one final takeaway for you today: Your first visit to San Juan is certainly not going to be your last.
San Juan’s warm hospitality and welcoming spirit make your first visit feel like coming home to an old friend. With a lifetime’s worth of things to see and do, the opportunity to fall in love with this enchanting city is never-ending. I know this visit is the first of many.
(Oh – and if you’ve been wondering “Where’s the beach?” this whole time, don’t worry. You’ll find it in my upcoming guide to the island’s east coast!).
Muchas gracias to the team at Ron del Barrilito for making our rum tasting and tour possible!
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Questions for you
Have you ever left a destination with an immediate desire to return?
Which spot on this list are you most excited to visit first?
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