Nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains is a little slice of holiday heaven.
Johnson City, Tennessee, is an outdoor adventurer’s paradise, a shopper’s delight, and a foodie’s dream. But when the holidays arrive, the city combines those three passions into one – and proceeds to ramp things up a notch.
The city’s slogan is Go. All. Out. – a phrase they fully embody.
I recently had the chance to spend the most festive weekend in Northeast Tennessee, zigzagging around this corner of the state, from downtown Johnson City (though it’s not a small town, downtown Johnson City has a decidedly friendly, small-town feel), to historic Jonesborough (Tennessee’s oldest town), and even made a quick trek up to Bristol (you may have heard of a little thing called the Bristol Motor Speedway?).
This visit was generously hosted by Visit Johnson City with support from destination partners, but as always, all photos, writing, and opinions are my own.
Had I not been in the holiday spirit when I arrived, there is no way I could last more than a few hours without feeling the cheer. Everywhere I looked, there were windows so beautifully decorated, lights twinkling, classic holiday tunes playing, and families out enjoying time together. Combined with pleasantly cool (but not cold) weather, this might just be the sweetest place to spend the holidays – but even if you’re visiting at another time of year, there’s still plenty of value for you here! Read on to learn more about all the things you need to see and do (and eat!) in Johnson City and beyond.
WHAT TO SEE + DO IN JOHNSON CITY
HOLIDAY ATTRACTIONS IN JOHNSON CITY
I'm not sure if it's because I'm a former Floridian, but Christmastime just feels more magical in the mountains. Johnson City and the surrounding areas go all out for the holidays, spreading cheer and delight to people of all ages:
Candy Land Christmas
Candy Land Christmas | Founders Park + King Commons Park
The premier event of the holiday season is back and bigger than ever, with over 160 trees and more than a million lights. Each of these magical twelve-foot, live trees is decorated by local businesses and nonprofits – and there’s no skimping on the decor! Walking through the displays in both Founders Park and King Commons Park, you get a true sense of what community means to the residents of Johnson City. People of all ages are out strolling the paths together, as families or on first dates – everyone stepping into the fresh air and away from their screens to stop and admire all of the special festive touches. If you have the time, I highly recommend stopping to check out each and every tree, and visiting Candy Land Christmas at least twice: once at night to see the rows and rows of colorfully illuminated trees, and once during the day to see the details up close. The cleverness and creativity are sure to bring a smile to your face. And psst… while in King Commons Park, be sure to head up to the rooftop of Watauga Brewing Company for a bird’s eye view. The 2023 edition kicks off with a Grand Lighting Ceremony on Saturday, Nov. 25 at 6:30 p.m. and runs through January 7.
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The Pinnacle Speedway in Lights
The Pinnacle Speedway in Lights | 151 Speedway Blvd, Bristol, TN 37620
Racing fan or not, people of all ages will enjoy the five-mile drive through three million lights, including a stint on “The World’s Fastest Half-Mile” at Bristol Motor Speedway’s The Pinnacle Speedway in Lights. This annual event, like the ones at many of the other speedways in the U.S., benefits Speedway Children’s Charities. The course meanders through the parking areas, inside the speedway’s walkways, and culminates in a lap around the racetrack (whew, the high-bank track is much steeper than it looks!). Lines on peak nights are notoriously long; we were grateful to have a Fast Lane pass to cut down the time spent waiting to enter. Make a point to park your car and stop at the Appalachian-themed Christmas Village in the infield to enjoy local holiday gifts, fair rides, tasty treats, and yes, restrooms. With the Fast Lane pass, it took about two hours to drive through the attraction; trust me, you’ll be grateful for the pit stop!
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OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN JOHNSON CITY
Thanks to its prime location in the Blue Ridge Mountains, outdoor enthusiasts will be smitten with the many opportunities to get outside and explore (don't worry indoorsy friends - there are plenty of activities for you later in this post!).
Buffalo Mountain Park
Buffalo Mountain Park | 570 Highridge Rd, Johnson City, TN 37604
Buffalo Mountain Park offers visitors the experience of a mountain hike without leaving the city limits. And with Johnson City’s mild climate, this park is open year-round (just note hours and parking lot access here). With miles and miles of trail to choose from, hikers are spoiled for choice – and, equipped with safe and comfortable footwear, even newbie hikers will feel comfortable venturing up. Can you believe a short half-mile loop rewarded us with this view? Follow the white blazes, and you’ll reach Huckleberry Knob and Sunset Point in no time.
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Tweetsie Trail
Tweetsie Trail | Alabama St, Johnson City, TN 37601 Local Motion Cyclery | 701 E Maple St, Johnson City, TN 37601
The Tweetsie Trail features almost ten miles of trails located along the former East Tennessee & Western North Carolina Railroad route (fun fact: it gets its moniker from the sound of the train whistle as it rumbled past). Today, people of all ages and levels take an idyllic ride, walk, or jog down the wide, mostly flat gravel path that runs all the way from Johnson City to neighboring Elizabethton. BYOB (that’s “bring your own bike”) or rent one from Local Motion Cyclery, conveniently located at the trailhead on the Johnson City side, and pedal for as long as you like. We biked to the Milligan Depot, about 2.5 miles from the start, where we met a bovine friend – but wherever you end up, just know that on this out-and-back trail, you’ll likely find yourself working a little harder on the way back…
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Tannery Knobs Mountain Bike Park
Tannery Knobs Mountain Bike Park | 18 Tannery Knob, Johnson City, TN 37601
Although I’m sure Tannery Knobs is a wonderful place to go mountain biking, that’s not the reason we were there (my first time mountain biking was also surely my last). Instead, we were there for the view. This overlook is only a five-minute drive from downtown and is accessible by vehicle (making it a great alternative to hiking at Buffalo Mountain Park). That being said, if you are there for mountain biking or practicing in the skills area, please let me know how you like it in the comments!
WHERE TO EAT + DRINK IN JOHNSON CITY
Johnson City has something for all tastes. International flavors? Check. Fine dining? Check. Good, honest, locally-grown food? Check, check, check. Oh, and there's plenty of beer - you'll find six breweries within stumbling distance downtown.
Wellington’s Restaurant
Wellington's Restaurant | 1216 W State of Franklin Rd, Johnson City, TN 37604
Wellington’s is Carnegie Hotel’s fine dining restaurant – which means they are open for breakfast! Hearty Southern fare is on the menu to provide a well-fed start to your day. The offerings skew traditional breakfast, but there are some modern takes like an English Muffin Croque Madame or a Chipotle Quinoa Bowl. You can find more about our tasty breakfast at this Johnson City classic in my Carnegie Hotel review post.
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The Black Olive
The Black Olive | 202 E Main St, Johnson City, TN 37604
Confession: I felt a bit of minor panic after being seated at The Black Olive for brunch. There were so many servers working, but only one other party was seated in the dining room when we arrived (why is this an issue? Empty restaurants are usually a sign of bad food or service). I shouldn’t have worried, however; ten minutes after snapping the photo above, every single table was full and I was instead feeling grateful for having a reservation. With friendly service and a menu full of early-morning comfort food favorites, it’s easy to see why this spot is a favorite among locals. Pro-tip: don’t sleep on the Downtown Browns, which are potatoes sautéed with peppers and onions and smothered in cheese.
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Crumb Bakeshop
Crumb Bakeshop | 500 W Walnut St, Johnson City, TN 37604
You’ll be forgiven if you momentarily lose your train of thought after entering Crumb Bakeshop (it’s a relief that we weren’t the only ones left speechless by the pastry display). It’s well worth the short walk from the main part of downtown for the sweet, flaky pastries. Everything was absolutely delicious and I would order it all over again, save for the loaf of sourdough – it seemed like an important ingredient was somehow left out (salt?), and thankfully our only disappointment for the trip.
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Gourmet and Company
Gourmet and Company | 214 E Mountcastle Dr Suite 1J, Johnson City, TN 37601
The unassuming exterior of Gourmet and Company belies the local treasure inside. This upscale restaurant has been serving Johnson City residents and visitors for over thirty years, sourcing local ingredients as much as possible. My favorite way to enjoy a fine dining experience without breaking the budget is by visiting at lunch – and that is exactly what we did. A pillowy-soft quiche and salad made for the perfect light lunch (accompanied by the cutest poppyseed muffins), and Michael swears up and down that the potato salad is some of the best he’s ever eaten. But don’t let the fear of double potatoes deter you from ordering a starter of their famous truffle fries. You’ll regret it if you don’t! On the way out, stop and check out their retail selection of local staples.
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Voodoo Chicken
Voodoo Chicken | 121 N Commerce St Ste 104, Johnson City, TN 37604
Although we weren’t in Nashville, the craving for hot chicken knows no city limits. Voodoo Chicken is the only restaurant in the Tri-Cities region that dishes out Nashville Hot Chicken. We debated back and forth over heat level with our server, who shared with us that she can’t tolerate the “hot” level. In the end, we decided to just go for it. I’m not sure if they cooled things down for us after that, but I found the chicken pleasantly tingly rather than fiery-hot. And in the end, maybe that was for the best.
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Freiberg’s
Freiberg's | 203 E Main St, Johnson City, TN 37604
Travel is the perfect excuse to seek out a cuisine that you don’t often eat at home – in our case for this trip, that cuisine was German. Named after the owner’s hometown, Freiberg’s is the perfect spot to enjoy some hearty, authentic German fare.
A word of warning: the food is not for the faint of heart. Freiberg’s menu relies heavily on stick-to-your-ribs dishes, like bratwursts, schnitzels, buletten, and potatoes in many forms. Considering their website is eatbrats.com, I felt as though I needed to try each of the three styles on the menu in the Bratwurst Platte Sampler, without stopping to consider the fact that I ordered three sausages (“three sausages!” someone at the next table incredulously remarked).
I admit defeat in that I did not finish my meal, but I did manage to try all of them. My favorite was the Original, with just enough kick from the black pepper, but Michael predictably favored the Cheddar. The platters are served with two sides; while most of the side options are potatoes (including a delicious vinegar-based Bavarian potato salad), you can order something green by choosing the broccoli. Michael, however, vastly enjoyed his double potatoes. If you’re a first-timer, I suggest taking a look over the photo menu online to gauge portion sizes, as you may be better off sharing a meal – particularly if you’re enjoying a large German beer alongside!
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Juan Siao
Juan Siao | 104 Tipton St, Johnson City, TN 37604
Juan Siao’s menu is truly global fare, as it includes items inspired by the Asian continent and Mexico. Although there are a number of traditional entrees on the menu, where Juan Siao shines is in its fusion dishes. In particular, the birria ramen is a fun play on two already delicious dishes, using the flavorful beef consomé as the base for the usual squiggly ramen noodles. If you choose to add the monsoon sauce, beware – it is every bit as spicy as they say. Reservations at this popular date night spot are essential; otherwise, expect a wait.
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Dos Gatos Coffee Bar
Dos Gatos Coffee Bar | 238 E Main St, Johnson City, TN 37604
Come for the coffee, and stay for the community. Dos Gatos truly feels like a neighborhood coffee shop, with people running into friends, ordering their “usual”, and curling up in the corner to read the local paper. The emphasis on local art here is equally as important as the (very good) coffee – the walls are filled with a wide range of styles and media.
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The Windsor Speakeasy
The Windsor Speakeasy | 220 W Market St, Johnson City, TN 37604
The secret is out! The Windsor Speakeasy is the crowd-favorite cocktail bar in Johnson City. Mercifully, they’ve made it easy to access. There’s no fumbling around trying to figure out a password to enter or worrying about locating the door. Once you enter the convenience store-like building that reads “Just One More” you’ll be greeted by a host to add your name to the list (there’s probably going to be a wait!). Once there’s room inside, the vending machine opens to allow you through. The space inside is dark and cozy, and in December it is so sweetly decorated for the holidays. The menu is full of delightful seasonal and traditional cocktails, such as the Goodnight, Moon (pictured left, with gin, lemon, Sleepytime Tea syrup, sloe gin, tart bitters, and egg white) and the Colibri (right, with Altos añejo tequila, grapefruit cordial, and winter melon bitters).
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Little Animals Brewery
Little Animals Brewery | 324 E Main St, Johnson City, TN 37601
Little Animals Brewery just might be one of the cutest brewery names I’ve ever heard – its name is derived from the word animalcule, invented by Dutch scientist Antonie van Leeuwenhoek to describe microorganisms. The brewery is probably best known for its funky beers, and The Huntress fit the bill. Half-pours are available for select beers, but I recommend going for the full pour to linger a little longer in the cozy space.
SHOPPING IN JOHNSON CITY
Boutiques
Azlinn Hope | 106 Tipton St, Johnson City, TN 37604 Ophelia & Company | 109 Cherry St, Johnson City, TN 37601 Owl's Nest Clothing & More | 113 Cherry St #80, Johnson City, TN 37604
Downtown Johnson City has no shortage of boutiques that thoughtfully curate a range of on-trend items at accessible prices. Azlinn Hope might be the most well-known in the area; it originally opened inside another boutique in 2015, before expanding to Morristown in 2017 and eventually opening a Johnson City location in 2019. A newcomer to the local shopping scene is Ophelia & Company, which opened shortly before this visit, yet feels firmly established. And although secondhand shops are not traditionally considered boutiques, the clean and easy-to-navigate layout of Owl’s Nest Clothing & More made it feel like one. If you enjoy the thrill of the treasure hunt at thrift stores, this is a good place to search!
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Local + Specialty Shops
BoomTown & Co. | 127 Spring St, Johnson City, TN 37604 Hometown Cottage | (now in Kingsport) The Generalist | 248 E Main St, Johnson City, TN 37604 Terrarium Plant Store | 221 E Main St, Johnson City, TN 37604
Johnson City’s downtown area is also home to many shops carrying locally made and specialty items. BoomTown & Co. is practically bursting at the seams (in the best way!) with unique Eastern Tennessee goods, including their exclusive screen-printed designs. Chances are you’ll start spotting these tees on folks around town after you shop here. Hometown Cottage (now in Kingsport) is like a shop filled with other shops – each display holds goods from all sorts of local makers and businesses, from tasty snacks to handmade jewelry. It was a little difficult to get in the doors at The Generalist – this modern-day general store is chockfull of local goods, vintage items, and tempting treats. I’d live there if I could! And for the plant-lover, a stop at Terrarium Plant Store is a must. I thoroughly enjoyed browsing all of the plant varieties, even though I feel like I could hear them wincing at the thought of coming home with my brown thumb…
A DAY TRIP TO HISTORIC JONESBOROUGH
Boone Street Market | 101 Boone St, Jonesborough, TN 37659 Main Street Cafe & Catering | 117 W Main St, Jonesborough, TN 37659 Chester Inn State Historic Site and Museum | 116 W Main St, Jonesborough, TN 37659 Tennessee Hills Distillery | 127 Fox St, Jonesborough, TN 37659 International Storytelling Center | 100 W Main St, Jonesborough, TN 37659 Mill Spring Makers Market | 144 E Main St, Jonesborough, TN 37659 The Lollipop Shop | 129 E Main St, Jonesborough, TN 37659
Only fifteen minutes away from Johnson City is historic Jonesborough, a destination worth at least a half day’s worth of your time. The oldest town in Tennessee is charming any time of year, but particularly so at the holidays when it’s all decked out in red and green. Park your vehicle wherever you find a spot, and take to the pedestrian-friendly sidewalks of Main Street. This town has taken care to make sure its surroundings are comfortable and accessible by widening the sidewalks, burying powerlines, raising crosswalks, and providing public restrooms.
Jonesborough plays host to many seasonal and year-round events; as luck would have it, our visit coincided with Doggone Christmas (can we please take a moment to admire all the pups at the event? The town takes their commitment to inclusivity seriously, as the event is open to all pets).
Strolling Jonesborough is a bit like being pulled into a warm hug – everywhere we went we were greeted with kindness and welcome, even though it was clear we weren’t from the area (as an aside, this is in stark contrast to the somewhat stuck-up small towns where I grew up). If your visit falls on a Saturday, start your day at Boone Street Market and the Jonesborough Farmer’s Market, where you’re likely to meet some of the local growers and purveyors alongside their products. Each of these places takes “local” seriously – Boone Street Market sells what is grown or produced within 100 miles, and the farmer’s market only allows farmers and artisans to sell what they have grown or made. If you’re in town on any other day (except Sunday), do still visit Boone Street Market. They carry a range of foods for all diets and needs in this gas station-turned-grocer. Now that you’ve worked up an appetite…
…the hottest spot in town for lunch is Main Street Cafe & Catering. This darling, family-owned cafe has been satiating the community’s hunger for forty years and will do the same for you if you can manage to snag a table. Arrive early for lunch service and place your order at the counter. The menu features all the cafe specialties you love, and the prices are downright reasonable.
Here’s another reason why I hope you are visiting on a Saturday: the Town Tour, which takes place every Saturday from March through December at 1 p.m., and is a steal at $5 per person. I won’t spoil the tour by spilling all the details, but you’ll have the chance to walk the streets of downtown with a knowledgeable guide to learn about Jonesborough’s colorful past and inviting present.
If you’re looking to get into the holiday spirits (or just the regular spirits, depending on the time of your visit!), head to Tennessee Hills Distillery for a taste of Tennessee whiskeys, gins, and vodkas. The team will give you a tour on request, which makes bellying up to the tasting bar even more enjoyable (watch out – their pours are extremely generous!). My favorites were the straight bourbon and lemon lavender, which both found their way home with me.
Have a glass of water, and head back to Main Street to visit the International Storytelling Center. If you’re lucky, one of the Tellers-in-Residence may be presenting at Storytelling Live (runs May through October), or there might be a live performance in the theater. We were not so lucky this visit, but I’ve bookmarked the National Storytelling Festival for a return visit! After all, Jonesborough is the Storytelling Capital of the World.
Wind down your detour to Jonesborough by visiting some of the cute shops downtown. Mill Spring Makers Market was a favorite of mine for its large collection of locally-made products, and kids will literally be in a candy store at The Lollipop Shop. For the perfect bookend, head back to Boone Street Market to pick up any refrigerated or frozen goods to take home.
WHERE TO STAY IN JOHNSON CITY
Carnegie Hotel
Carnegie Hotel | 1216 W State of Franklin Rd, Johnson City, TN 37604
This four-star, 137-room boutique hotel is actually a replica – although you’d never know it! The original property opened in 1891 before unfortunately being lost to fire in 1910. Today’s version of the hotel only opened at the turn of this century, but the authentic antique and vintage touches throughout are enough to convince you otherwise. The building and property are expansive, with rooms ranging from 400 to 1,000 sq. ft. and 10,000 total sq. ft. of meeting and event spaces.
Our King Deluxe Room was incredibly spacious and included a comfortable sleigh bed, full-size writing desk, sofa, closet, and an absolutely palatial bathroom with double vanity sinks and a separate tub and shower. On-site amenities include a fitness center, outdoor pool, and full-service salon and spa – all of which I’m bookmarking for my next visit! You can read my full review of my stay at Carnegie Hotel here on the blog.
WITH MORE TIME IN JOHNSON CITY
A weekend is only enough time to scratch the surface and eat a few good meals – but there is so much more to do in Johnson City proper and in this corner of Tennessee. With additional year-round attractions like the Rocky Mount Historic Site, Andrew Johnson National Historic Site, Birthplace of Country Music Museum, and Hands-On Discovery Center, there’s a little something for everyone (at any time of year!). And fun, seasonal events and activities may be going on when you visit. Some highlights: catching a Johnson City Doughboys game, going all out at the Meet the Mountains Festival, attending a Broadway show, watching a race at Bristol Motor Speedway, whitewater rafting on the Nolichucky, and having a listen at the National Storytelling Festival are just a few.
Naturally, no list of this nature could be complete without food, so with more time, I’d love to check out Southern Craft BBQ, Red Meze, Timber!, Gourmet and Company’s dinner menu, Lazy Lady Baking Co., more of the city’s watering holes and breweries, and finally – hitting up local chain Pal’s Sudden Service.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: JOHNSON CITY, TENNESSEE
Johnson City is part of the Tri-Cities region of Eastern Tennessee, comprised of Kingsport, Johnson City, and Bristol. While there’s a chance you may arrive via plane (Tri-Cities Airport is about 25 minutes away), most visitors to the area arrive by car – and you’ll need a car for most of your visit. But its location in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains makes it a perfect place to visit during the holidays or any time of the year.
This region has a deeply fascinating history – from once being part of North Carolina, to attempts to create an independent state, to a bustling rail industry, to birthing country music, to developing a knack for telling stories – these identities have shaped the destination you visit today.
As you may have noticed from this guide, I recommend spending a major portion of your visit in downtown Johnson City. Here’s where you’ll find a high concentration of local shops and restaurants, and once you park, it’s very walkable. Parking at off-peak times is generally not an issue (and it’s free!), but you may find yourself circling the one-way streets to find a spot during busy times. That being said – make sure you get out to explore some of the incredible outdoor features of the area and neighboring small towns. You’ll be glad you did!
The heartiest, most festive thank you to the team at Visit Johnson City and all of the destination partners included here for making this trip possible and sharing in the season with us! Be sure to check out their website for the latest in local travel news and happenings.
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If you’re from the Tri-Cities region – did I miss any of your favorite spots? Leave a comment and let me know (I’ll take any excuse to return!).
