A trip to Cartagena wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the beach.
But after reading numerous reviews of the beaches in the Bocagrande district citing thick crowds, constant offers from street vendors (including oyster scams and sudden massages), and slightly murky water, we decided to look further afield to Colombia’s Rosario Islands.
The islands are located about 35 kilometers from Cartagena and are best reached by fast boat from one of the city’s ports. There are many, many ways you can spend your time in the National Park (you can take a full day tour of the islands’ mangroves, you can camp/glamp or rent an entire island for the night, you can visit the aquarium, you can snorkel or SUP board), but frankly, we just wanted to park ourselves on a beach chair somewhere for a few hours without interruption.
This post is not sponsored by the resort and I purchased admission myself. This post contains affiliate links.
There are numerous resorts in the Rosario Islands and in nearby Playa Blanca that offer day passes, but to be honest it’s a little hard to search for them all (and you’ll probably see the same five results popping up over and over again). Searching for the Spanish term pasadía was a huge help, as was searching through hashtags on Instagram. Most of the resorts offer similar amenities for similar prices, so we primarily used Google/Trip Advisor reviews to finally narrow our options down to one.
After careful consideration, we landed on Islabela. The property is pretty young and rustic, but I appreciated their commitment to sustainability and working with the local population. To reserve our day pass, we simply messaged Alison on WhatsApp (the app is a popular source for communicating in Colombia – it’s helpful to go ahead and download it before you leave home). After answering a few questions, our trip was confirmed. We were given helpful instructions for finding the dock at the port, and clear guidelines for what would be included as part of the pass.
The morning of our visit, we awoke early and grabbed a coffee and pastry to begin our day, and purchased a large bottle of water from a convenience store. We dressed simply and purposely avoided bringing much with us to avoid the risk of theft, loss, or damage. Sunscreen, lip balm, and bottled water went into a plastic convenience-store bag (which we continued to use over the course of our trip), and our phones and currency went into a waterproof belt bag. Looking around later on, we realized we probably brought the least with us – others packed an outfit change, books, and more in large bags and backpacks.
We found our way to the port (“Muelle de la Bodeguita” on Google Maps) just before our scheduled arrival of 8:15 a.m., and dodged vendors left and right selling water bottles, selfie sticks, waterproof phone pouches, hats, sunglasses, and more. If you see a number of slightly confused tourists and boats, you’re probably in the right place!
We found a woman holding a sign with Islabela printed on it, exchanged with her the COP 17,500 port tax (this price is per person; about USD 5.25 as of August 2019; August 2022 update: the price is now COP 20,000 or USD 4.57; August 2023 update: the price is now COP 28,000 or approximately USD 6.80) for our entry tickets to the port, and scanned through to the other side and onto the dock.
Once through to the other side, we located the Islabela stand and paid our day-pass fee (COP 180,000 now 290,000 each, or $185,000 via credit card, or about USD 54/55.50 now USD 70.35 per person) and received our wristbands. We were also asked to sign in with an ID number; rather than writing down our passport numbers on a communal sheet of paper, we instead shared our state driver’s license numbers.
After that, we wandered the dock area, purchasing one more bottle of water from the bar, using the restroom, and taking a look in the small shop. Michael and I each made a last-minute purchase: a simple baseball cap for him, and a bandana for me (easily the best USD 1.50 I’ve spent in a while – the sun had only been up a few hours but my skin was already dripping with sweat!).
At 9:00 a.m. we were called to board the boat. Michael and I ended up near the end of the line and were unable to sit next to one another – this wasn’t a huge deal for us but is something to bear in mind. Our boat’s crew was a lively bunch, and after putting on our lifejackets and listening to a safety presentation in Spanish (translated into English by a passenger volunteer) we were off!
The ride to Islabela went smoothly and lasted about forty-five minutes. Once we arrived, we were helped onto a dock and shown to our reserved spot. Michael and I didn’t really have a preference for where we’d like to sit, but I think if I had to go back and pick, I would have chosen the spots where we were placed. Our two chairs were the furthest away from the crowd and right up front, which meant we had an unobstructed view of the water for the majority of our visit.
After we settled into our beach chairs, one-by-one staff came to greet us: first with a welcome beverage (a nice, cold glass of sangria), and then to ask if we’d like a massage, to go snorkeling, or paddleboard, and then finally, to know whether we’d like to have lunch at noon or 12:30 p.m.
Once that was all sorted, we weren’t offered any other items or services, which was quite nice and relaxing. We spent the rest of the morning moving between the water and our beach chairs, reapplying sunscreen and eventually ordering drinks.
The drink prices are higher than on the mainland, but we never felt as though we were being gouged. And I’d planned on ordering a second cocktail later in the day – that is, until the drink I ordered arrived. Not only did the liquor-drenched “Coco Loco” arrive in a coconut filled to the brim, but it also was accompanied by a second full glass of the beverage. This drink definitely packs a punch!
Most of the guests selected the noon lunch service, so we practically had the dining area to ourselves at 12:30 p.m. We were first served a small salad and a pitcher of aguapanela con limón (a beverage made from sugarcane juice and lime), which tasted so cold and refreshing in the heat. Our meals arrived shortly after: my fried fish and Michael’s chicken, both served with fried green plantains and coconut rice.
While I think the fish at La Mulata was just slightly better, both of our meals at Islabela hit the spot. And judging by the empty state of our plates after our meal, the sun and heat really worked up our appetite!
After lunch, we wandered around the rest of the property. The other side of the crescent-shaped island is even more rustic and doesn’t feature a net protecting swimmers from the open sea. As August is jellyfish season, we avoided swimming on this side of the island but appreciated the view just the same.
The sand at Islabela isn’t terribly soft; there are a lot of sharp coral pieces waiting to pierce your soft feet everywhere. This was something we’d read about before leaving, and both packed our water shoes instead of flimsy sandals. I’m so glad we did; otherwise, we would have had a tougher time trying to avoid cuts on our feet. On the way back to our beach chairs, we stopped to say hello to the chickens, dogs, and cat roaming the property.
Afterward, we spent our remaining time at the resort swimming a little more and napping on our chairs. Promptly at 2:45 p.m., the boat pulled back up to the dock with a toot of a horn. Drowsy, we quickly gathered our belongings, left a tip for the staff, and made a run for it. Although we were supposed to have fifteen minutes to board, the boat left within ten minutes. This time we were seated together toward the rear of the boat, which turned out to be a blessing.
You see, the water turns choppier as the day goes on (which, if you’ve seen that episode of Real Housewives, you already know), and boats have to leave by 3 p.m. at the latest to make it back safely. In preparation, we shared a dose of Dramamine but still were a bit rattled by the constant thunk-thunk-thunk of the boat riding over the waves. The rear of the boat is slightly less affected by the up-and-down movement, and riders prone to motion-sickness should try to keep their focus on the horizon as much as possible. Thankfully on this ride, land is always in sight and provides a point of reference (as opposed to the disorienting nature of the open sea) to keep our minds steady. We were both surprised and grateful at the reaction of our fellow passengers to this experience, as no one fell ill or seemed frightened; on the contrary, everyone seemed to be in good spirits, laughing and holding up their hands as if riding a roller coaster. Before we knew it, the sea began to calm and the skyline came into view; a few moments after that we were back on dry land, tired from the sand and sun but ready for the rest of the afternoon.
Know Before You Go: Islabela Eco Resort
My biggest tip for Islabela (or really, any of the resorts in the Rosario Islands) is to go in with realistic expectations. This resort in particular is rustic, and not necessarily infused with all of the comforts of home. It does, however, have everything you’ll need for the day. Towels, chairs, and lunch are all provided, and there are two modern toilets onsite. You’ll want to pack sturdy shoes, sunscreen, a dry bag, sunglasses, a hat, water, and motion sickness medicine. Although you can pay for the day pass and any expenses at the resort with a credit card, you’ll need to have some cash on hand to pay the port fee and to leave a tip for the staff. At the port you can purchase any last-minute items, but for the best price, purchase within the city. And as for your boat ride back, be prepared for a bumpy ride – and be prepared to leave early. The Coast Guard can call all boats back at any time if the water gets too choppy.
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Have you visited any of Cartagena’s nearby beaches?
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