“Wow, Cartagena?” People asked Michael and me, over and over again when we told people where we were traveling for our eleventh (dating) anniversary.
The truth is, we weren’t really considering international destinations for our trip.
Our sights were initially set on Portland, Maine – first flying to Boston and making the two-hour drive up. But while we were in the early phases of planning, we decided that the price of staying in the coastal city was more than we could afford. For simple, no-frills lodging alone we would be facing nearly $900 in costs for three nights. Adding in the cost of flights (about $200 each) and a rental car, we knew we’d be out about $2,000 over the course of four days.
No thank you.
So, back to the drawing board.
What came up next was Cartagena, Colombia.
After a quick search through Airbnb, we found accommodations in the city were much more affordable than in Portland. A little more research told us we’d be able to walk around our destination without the need for a car, and that we could eat street food to save money. Reading a few blog posts on the city sealed the deal: we’d have plenty to do to occupy our time but in a slow-paced way. With that, we booked the flights and started dreaming about our vacation!
Today I’m sharing a mini-guide to Cartagena, complete with things to do, places to eat, and places to drink (both alcohol and coffee – this is Colombia, after all!). What’s notably absent from this list? Many of the “must-dos” you’ll see in other guides. No, we didn’t go to most of the well-worn sights like the Bocagrande area, the Castillo, or the Convent, nor did we dine at Carmen or La Vitrola. Instead, we stuck to a mix of places we wandered into or found online ahead of time and wanted to visit because we wanted to go there (not just because some blogger or magazine suggested it). As you prepare for your trip to Cartagena – or anywhere, really – carefully consider why you want to visit a particular attraction or restaurant. Read feedback and reviews, and see if there are places that stick out that mesh with the kind of journey you want to take. Here’s what we did and recommend for the traveler who likes to get around on their own and seeks out places that feel more local:
THINGS TO DO IN CARTAGENA
Search for Wildlife in Parque del Centenario
Parque del Centenario | Map
You can walk around the gates of the park to get to where you’re going, but that would be a huge mistake. Take at least one walk through the Parque del Centenario on the border of the walled city and Getsemaní near dusk. Look carefully, as this seemingly quiet park surrounded by buildings and people is teeming with wildlife. We were fortunate enough to find monkeys, red squirrels, iguanas, and even a sloth on our treks through the park. Don’t forget to look up!
Shake it on Sundays at Zumba en la Plaza
Zumba en la Plaza | Map
Judging by the number of people hanging around each night, Plaza de la Trinidad is the place to be when the sun sets. But on Sunday nights, it gets even busier, thanks to the ninety-minute Zumba en la Plaza class. The session starts at 8 p.m. and is free (but please donate if you’re still around at the end of the class!), and you’ll see everyone joining in – locals who just want to dance, tourists timidly moving near the back, and Zumba fanatics who seem to know all the moves. It’s still pretty hot at this hour, so be sure to drink water. You’ll be offered bottles of water and beer for sale every few minutes, so take advantage.
Admire the Street Art
Multiple Locations
I hope you packed your camera! Whether you decide to book a tour or go it alone, set aside some time to walk around and enjoy the street art throughout the city (but especially in Getsemaní) if that’s your thing. You’ll find scenes to delight your spirit and to challenge your head and heart.
Visit the Rosario Islands
Islabela Eco Resort | Map
I’ve shared about our day trip to Islabela Eco Resort in this separate post, but if you have three or more days in Cartagena, you should definitely consider a trip to the Rosario Islands! Most trips only occupy half a day – perfect for the traveler with limited time in the city (or for the easily sunburned *raises hand*).
CARTAGENA RESTAURANTS
La Esquina del Pandebono
La Esquina del Pandebono | Map
We couldn’t wait to get our mitts on some pandebono, and in fact, it was the very first thing we did once we dropped off our bags. La Esquina del Pandebono was located just one block away from our Airbnb (which meant we walked by it multiple times per day, perpetually suffering from the temptation of warm, cheesy goodness). I miss them already, and may have to try making them at home!
La Mulata
La Mulata | Map
La Mulata is a place well known to the traveler in Cartagena, but judging by the ratio of diners during our visit, it’s also a favorite of locals. You’re on the coast, remember, and seafood is the way to go here. I’d never tasted fried fish this fresh or juicy before, and oh my gosh the avocado. I’d happily eat here weekly if we lived in Cartagena.
La Cevicheria
La Cevicheria | Map
We were really on the fence about visiting La Cevicheria (or, “the place where Anthony Bourdain went when he was in Cartagena,” as it’s probably best known). The reviews were mostly good, with some bad ones thrown in the mix, but I worried about quality simply based on the sheer number of reviews for the place. Oh, and the prices are steep for the city. The verdict? Our meals were definitely good, but they didn’t knock our socks off, and service left a lot to be desired (and that’s coming from two very laid-back diners!). If you must go, go – you’ll be fine – but if this doesn’t top your list, give somewhere else a try.
Caffé Lunático
Caffé Lunático | Map
We weren’t planning to go to Caffé Lunático for our anniversary dinner. We were planning to go to Las Indias Boutique Gourmet for dinner. We’d messaged them through Facebook to find out if a reservation was available that evening, and they responded that it was, and then we never heard anything more after inquiring about specific available times. We weren’t too surprised, then, to find the doors shuttered for the evening; a brief phone call confirmed that they were indeed closed for the night. Quickly we moved on to our backup plan: Caffé Lunático. Thankfully the tapas restaurant had an available table once we arrived, and we spent an absolutely delightful evening drinking sangria and sharing small plates with a Colombian flair. Truly, each dish was amazing, and I can’t think of a single thing that could have been done to improve any of them. While I’m still a bit sad we never made it to Las Indias, I don’t regret our evening one bit.
La Brioche
La Brioche | Map
La Brioche was our savior on the morning of our trip to the Rosario Islands. The city is a sleepy one (with the heat, can you blame them?), and it was blessedly open early enough for us to grab a coffee and pastry before heading out on a 45-minute boat ride.
Beiyú
Beiyú | Map
The reviews for Beiyú warned of bad service, so we went in expecting the worst. But honestly, we were quite pleased with everything in this quaint cafe. Great coffee and local food speak for themselves, and I won’t say no to any breakfast served in a wine glass!
Cafe Stepping Stone
Cafe Stepping Stone | Now Closed
Cafe Stepping Stone (now closed) is an Australian cafe, and while it’s not really the usual sort of place we’d go when traveling in a Latin American country, the menu sounded too good to pass up. They have a very vegan-friendly menu and an admirable mission. It was tough to choose something to eat, but we ended up sharing this acaí bowl topped with bananas, chia, granola, and maple tahini. It was to die for. It’s also the kind of spot we find ourselves wishing existed in our hometowns for regular Sunday brunch.
Popsicles!
La Paletteria | Map Ciudad de las Paleta | Map
You’ll want to cool down with a popsicle whenever you get the chance. We visited La Paletteria and Ciudad de las Paletas, which offer solid popsicles in local fruit flavors like lalo (a sort-of green-appley kind of fruit) and corozo (you’d be hard-pressed to tell the difference between this fruit and a cranberry). Don’t have time to seek them out? Stop by a busy street vendor for a homemade version in a tall, thin baggie. You’ll find them all over the city!
Mila Pastelería
Mila Pastelería | Map
Mila Pastelería is another place we might have skipped, but they had absolutely wonderful air conditioning and plenty of places to sit and cool down during the hottest part of the day. Instead of eating a French-style pastry, we went for the order of churros and they were spectacular.
Street Food
Multiple Locations
I hope you’ve come to Cartagena hungry! It’s impossible to walk a block in the city without having to sidestep a street food vendor. Over the course of a city block, you might encounter fresh-cut fruit, various fried foods, limonada de coco (a limeade made with coconut water), and more. And if you have a sweet tooth there’s always the Portal de los Dulces, located near the clock tower. It’s an entire avenue lined with sweets – get the cocada! Our favorite street food vendors were clustered around the Plaza de la Trinidad and near our Airbnb (but perhaps that was due to the fact we could enjoy them on our balcony while watching the horse and carriages parading below!).
WHERE TO DRINK IN CARTAGENA
El Arsenal: The Rum Box
El Arsenal: The Rum Box | Map
Rum seems to be the most popular liquor in Cartagena (this is the Caribbean after all!), and El Arsenal: The Rum Box has a great selection of rums. Best of all, by the time you’re being seated you’re already being served a small tasting of rum and chocolate. Michael and I stayed for just one drink, but this would be a great place to hole up for the evening. And when it came time for the bill? I received a flower as a parting gift (Michael received the bill as his parting gift).
Cafe del Mar (well, nearby)
Cafe del Mar | Map
All of the Cartagena guides suggest going to Cafe del Mar for drinks and the best view of the sunset. What they don’t tell you is that there are plenty of places along the wall to hang out and numerous vendors walking around with coolers full of cheap beer. Save your pesos and watch nature’s nightly show with the locals instead!
Beer & Laundry
Beer & Laundry | Now Closed
Beer & Laundry (now moved to Medellín) seems pretty popular with backpackers, but we were simply there for a craft beer and to soak up a little A/C during the hottest part of the day. From what I overheard, laundry can be picked up two hours after dropoff, so you can explore the city or stay and play some of the many board and card games on hand. Random side note: I’ve always said that if we were to open some type of cafe, a laundromat cafe in a large city would be my first choice.
Cartagena Craft Beer
Cartagena Craft Beer | Now Closed
Cartagena Craft Beer (now closed) is located in Getsemaní and is another great place to grab a Colombian craft beer. The staff is knowledgeable and friendly, and the beers cost just a little more than one of the major domestic brews. Try the local beer brewed with coca leaf if available – it’s an interesting one!
Beer Lovers
Beer Lovers | Map
Beer Lovers is right in the heart of the walled city and offers more Belgian beers on draft than I’ve seen anywhere outside of Belgium. We can get those back home (in bottles, but still), so we opted for Colombian craft beers instead. Pop in for a cold one when the heat starts to be too much – combined with ice-cold A/C, you’ll feel rejuvenated and ready to keep exploring.
WHERE TO FIND COFFEE IN CARTAGENA
Abaco Libros y Cafe
Abaco Libros y Cafe | Map
Abaco Libros y Cafe is part-bookstore, part-coffee shop. Take your coffee para aquí and relax among the literary greats, or take it para llevar when you’re in a rush. There are several cold options on the menu (you’ll want your coffee cold if you’re heading back outside!).
Epoca
Epoca | Map
We only intended to visit Epoca once, but if I’m counting correctly, I believe we ended up there three times during our stay. The coffee was simply heaven. As is typical for us, we purchased beans to bring home (I can’t wait to get into them!). On our last visit, we were two doors down when an afternoon storm began, and we took refuge in Epoca with cocktails (like my delicious coca mojito).
UNIQUE AND BOUTIQUE SHOPPING IN CARTAGENA
Street Vendors
Multiple Locations
I don’t know how they do it, but the street vendors seem to know exactly what you need and will walk up to you carrying it, whether it’s a hat, sunglasses, water, or beer! I’d hesitate to suggest that the wares they are selling are truly artisanal or locally/ethically made, but I’d caution against haggling down a lower price if you decide to purchase something. Chances are, if you have internet access to read this blog and the ability to travel, you have the privilege to pay a little extra for these items. Just chalk it up to helping out a local (or as a “tourist tax” if you must).
Territorio
Territorio | Map
Sadly we didn’t manage to take photos in any of the Territorio shops we visited (there are four in all, I believe), but here’s the hat I picked up in one of their shops. The quality is much higher than any of the hats we saw in other shops or on the streets, I think it’s even slightly nicer than the Cuyana hat I recently ordered (but it’s also more fragile and I’d be afraid to fold and pack it).
St. Dom
St. Dom | Map
St. Dom is Cartagena’s answer to Paris’ Colette (which sadly closed a few years ago) or maybe Merci. Again, we didn’t take any photos inside the large concept store, but this was mainly due to staff circling all shoppers like hawks. This seems to be the norm in almost all shops in Cartagena, and this experience held up a great mirror to the privilege I experience when I shop freely in other places. As for the merchandise in St. Dom – there wasn’t much we could justify purchasing in the store, though Michael was very tempted by a baseball cap with the phrase, “No Gracias” printed on the front. It was the phrase we’d parroted all over the city, more than once every minute we were outside!
WHERE WE STAYED IN CARTAGENA
Balcones Apartments | Now Closed
We were spoiled for choice on Airbnb, which made our decision about where to stay really tough! Ultimately we landed on an affordable small studio with a balcony over a busy street in the heart of the walled city. It had air conditioning, which was a non-negotiable for us. It also had a somewhat rare amenity for Cartagena: hot water. Despite spending the days sweating and ducking from the sun, a warm shower was a real treat at the end of the day. The studio was no-frills but contained everything we needed – a bed, wardrobe, bathroom, and kitchenette (and one bonus of a great rooftop!) – and was a ten-minute walk from just about everywhere we’d want to go. Within a block, we could find several convenience stores, a large supermarket, a 24-hour pharmacy, plenty of restaurants, and tons of street vendors. Of course, all of this activity came with an auditory price. The vendors’ music began playing around 6 a.m. and continued well past our bedtime. For us, it added to the charm of the city, but light-sleepers may consider staying elsewhere.
Looking to book one of the Balcones Apartments? The owner rents the individual apartments via Airbnb and her own website (update: it looks like the owner no longer rents the unit we stayed in). To help cover some of the difference in costs, you can take 15% off your first Airbnb stay when you sign up and book using our referral link (we receive credit in return and it’s always so appreciated- thank you!). (edit: this program is no longer available).
TRAVEL TIPS FOR CARTAGENA
Cartagena is a beautifully chaotic, vibrant melting pot, glorious because of its perfect imperfections. We only scratched the surface of the city, though, and I think my biggest regret is not taking a local tour. On our next visit, I’d love to take one of these tours to better understand the history and modern dynamics at play in this coastal city. Still, after four full days in the city here’s what we learned to share with fellow travelers:
Cartagena’s temperature stays the same year-round: hot. The only weather pattern that fluctuates throughout the year is precipitation. Fall is typically the rainy season, and we got a taste of what that means on the last day of our mid-August trip. Over the course of about ten minutes, the sky darkened, lightning and thunder began (setting off car alarms in the process), a few drops fell, and then a vertical sheet of water began falling from the sky and snaking down the streets. After a few more minutes, rainwater flowed through the streets like a river several inches deep. The storm ended within an hour, but in all of my years, I’ve never quite seen anything like it! But back to the heat: dress in airy layers like cotton and linen in light hues, and walk in the shade whenever possible. Plan to drink lots of water to replace what you’re sweating out (or pick up some fresh coconut water!), and wear a hat and sunscreen. Cartagena is less than 750 miles from the equator, and the sun is stronger than you think!
Once you arrive at the airport, you’ll first go through immigration and customs before exiting (if you’ve arrived from an international destination). You’ll want to withdraw cash from the airport ATMs to get you started; these are located in the domestic departures hall, in the back right corner. There are several bank options, and while we planned to withdraw money from the BBVA ATM to avoid fees, our cards didn’t work. Instead, we each withdrew about USD 125 worth of currency at two different ATMs in case one had been compromised. Be prepared to start using your Colombian pesos immediately, as taxis do not accept credit cards and Uber is technically illegal. You can visit the kiosk near international arrivals to print out the cost of your fare to the city center (type in “centro historico”); in Cartagena, you should always agree on the fare before you enter the taxi – and ensure you have enough cash to cover it.
When you emerge from the taxi (at least in the center), you’ll be greeted by many vendors making a great effort to get you to part with your freshly withdrawn pesos. Don’t expect change if you decide to purchase something (even though they likely have change, we saw a lot of theatrics involving having to leave to get change – presumably in an attempt to get you to just say you don’t need your change back), and if you don’t want what they’re selling, a simple “no gracias” or “ya tengo” (“no thank you” or “I have it already”) will suffice. Be firm but definitely be polite. The only exception to this is the street rappers, who are nearly impossible to shake. The first time it happened to us, we ditched them by walking into a shop; the second time (and I’m not really proud of this – it was late and we were tired) I snapped with a “no estoy pagando” (“I am not paying”) and I guess managed to shock them into leaving us alone.
As far as safety goes, there’s an oft-used phrase in Colombia: “No dar papaya” (literally, “don’t give papaya”), which essentially means “don’t give someone the opportunity.” Don’t give someone the opportunity to steal from you or to harm you, and you’ll be fine. Some general safety/security tips: don’t wear anything valuable, don’t carry your phone in your hand more than you need to (wear an inexpensive watch to tell the time), don’t purchase drugs, don’t carry your passport (but do carry a copy of it at all times), don’t listen to anyone pretending to be a plainclothes cop (they may ask to examine your money for “counterfeit currency” – but a real police officer would never do that. If you encounter anyone masquerading as a cop, ask to have the examination completed at a police station, and know where one is ahead of time), and verbally confirm the amount of pesos you’re paying with (so that you both know you are giving a $50,000 note instead of a $5,000 note).
Eating and drinking around the city is generally safe, and I encourage you to seek out street food. Just be sure to follow the standard “rules” surrounding ordering food from a non-restaurant establishment: follow the lead of locals, make sure the food is moving (and not just sitting there), and that the area appears clean. We were cautioned against ordering juices from street vendors, as they sometimes are blended with ice or water that may be unclean. As for the water itself, we read mixed reviews about its potability and stuck to bottled water as much as possible. The grocery and convenience stores carry large jugs of water for just a few thousand pesos – sustainability-wise, it’s generally better to buy fewer larger vessels than more small ones.
You may encounter a few minor nuisances during your stay, but as long as you set realistic expectations beforehand, you shouldn’t feel shocked or dissatisfied. For one, the sidewalks in and around the walled city are narrow and often uneven, and most people tend to walk on the shady side of the street. This means foot traffic is flowing in both directions on a narrow stretch of pavement, and someone is going to have to step in the street to avoid oncoming pedestrians (don’t assume it’s the person who is closest to the street). It may as well be you, so be sure to do a quick traffic check before stepping off the curb. Oh, and while you’re in the street, watch out for horse droppings from the passing carriage rides! Another slight annoyance you’re likely to encounter is aggressive vendors at the nearby beaches. After reading and watching YouTube videos covering the beaches closest to the city, we decided to book a day trip to a more remote island (keep an eye out for that post in the coming days – edit: it’s here!).
My biggest tip for visiting any foreign country? Lean into any discomfort you feel. It helps you better understand the people living in your destination and gives you a greater appreciation for immigrants and visitors to your own country. And as you continue seeking resources to plan your trip, remember that crafting your journey lies in your own hands, these are just the things that we did and they fit our style of travel. I’d love to hear about the ways you design your trip to make it your own!
Pin this post for later
Has Cartagena been on your radar for long? How do you define your preferred style of travel?
Enjoyed this post? You may also like:
- Rosario Islands Day Trip: A Review of Islabela Eco Resort
- Traveling Light: Cartagena, Colombia Packing List
- Four Days in St. Croix Travel Guide
- Traveling Light: St. Croix Packing List
- All Summer Packing Lists
- Travel Guides by Destination
- My Travel Essentials
- How to Pack Faster
- Exclusive Discounts + Promo Codes
