Four Days in St. Croix Travel Guide

Back in August, Michael and I took our first flight since the start of the pandemic. We weren’t even planning to travel by air; we were set on doing a mini-road trip to Richmond, Virginia, to celebrate our dating anniversary (13 years – time flies!). But, as I often do when I’m bored, I found myself playing with the search settings of Google Flights and daydreaming. As luck would have it, there was a direct roundtrip flight from Charlotte to St. Croix that perfectly aligned with the dates we were considering.

I’ve never felt so torn about taking a trip – my heart was bursting with excitement at the prospect of traveling for the first time in more than 19 months, but my head was flooded with thoughts that this was all wrong. Since March 2020, Michael and I made the decision to stay home for the sake of others; although we are both considered low-risk, neither of us could bear the burden of potentially passing a deadly virus onto someone else.

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But by the time summer 2021 rolled around, we were both fully vaccinated (along with many in our community), and thus considered much lower risk for transmission. Researching travel requirements and reading other travelers’ recent experiences online made it clear that the USVI are taking COVID-19 safety efforts seriously: all travelers are required to take and submit a negative COVID test before flying, and mask-wearing is mandatory and strictly enforced on the islands. This made me feel much safer than if we traveled somewhere else domestically; we could board our flight knowing that everyone else on the plane had received a negative test result, too.

So I settled back into the familiar excitement of trip planning, and here’s what came of that:

ST. CROIX SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS

Sunrise at Point Udall

Point Udall | QC4M+94C, Rte 82, St. Croix, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

As noted in Atlas Obscura, the easternmost and westernmost points in the USA are both named Point Udall (the other Point Udall is in Guam). This means that the people who make the drive to this monument at the eastern tip of the island are the very first people in the USA to see the light of the sun that day. Check the sunrise time the night before, and cushion your drive time a little bit: the roads are dark and rough, so you’ll want to take it much slower than the already-low speed limit (this was a recurring theme on this trip!).

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Sejah Farm of the Virgin Islands

Sejah Farm of the Virgin Islands | 9P Castle Burke, Frederiksted, St Croix 00840, U.S. Virgin Islands

We woke up early Saturday morning pumped to visit La Reine Farmer’s Market, but it was inexplicably closed (also a recurring theme of our time in St. Croix). We granted ourselves a moment of feeling a little bummed and then searched for another farm stand. Sejah Farm was a short drive away, and while we couldn’t bring home very many of the fruits available, we did pick up some mangos, genips, and a new-to-us variety of banana that smelled like chocolate. If you’re traveling to the mainland U.S. after visiting St. Croix, you can bring some produce back and you’ll need to have it inspected at the airport. Noticeably absent from the list are mangos, so enjoy them now!

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Rainbow Beach

Rainbow Beach | William, St Croix 00840, U.S. Virgin Islands

This beach is often cited as one of the best on the island due to its sandy shores, lack of waves, and proximity to a bar. It’s a popular place for locals and travelers alike, with chairs, umbrellas, and more available to rent. We’d planned to borrow an umbrella and watch the sunset, but a beach curfew changed our plans. Instead, we just dipped our toes in the water before dipping out.

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Big Beard’s Buck Island Tour

Big Beard's Buck Island Tour | 81 Queen Cross St, Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

Buck Island is easily the most popular sight on St. Croix (well, near St. Croix), and there are only a few ways to get there. We picked the Full Day Sail from Big Beard’s Adventure Tours, which cost us a pretty penny at $120 each. Because we’ve saved so much over the past year by not traveling, we decided to make the splurge. The day began by meeting the staff at their gift shop to check in, and then waiting by the dock until the boat was ready. The crew collected our shoes, guided us onto the catamaran, and went over the itinerary and rules. We sailed and sipped on some local beers we brought for about an hour (pro tip: use the restroom at the gift shop before you depart). It was fascinating to listen to the crew talk about life in St. Croix and answer guests’ questions about Buck Island.

Once we anchored on Turtle Beach, most of the guests on board jumped in the water for some relaxing beach time. A snorkeling lesson was provided, and we were instructed not to stray too far from the boat. There are some hikes on the island, but the boat’s horn sounded before we were ready to leave – at most, we were on the beautiful sandy beach for thirty minutes. From there, we sailed to the reef where we were given a mandated snorkeling tour and then released to explore on our own. There’s nowhere to stand or rest, and even though everyone is required to wear an inflatable vest, the strong current meant it wasn’t a leisurely swim. The effort was worth it, however – we saw lots of little fish, squid, and a massive barracuda.

We boarded the boat again and the crew handed out cups of punch made with a local vodka. Hot, tired, and sunburned from the seemingly less effective mandated reef-safe sunscreen, we quietly rode to a beach back on St. Croix, where the crew served up hotdogs, hamburgers, veggie burgers, and fish. We stayed at the cookout for about an hour and a half and eventually made the return trip to downtown Christiansted. We were right behind the half-day group for the Buck Island portion of the tour, and ultimately didn’t spend any more time at the National Park than they did; the bulk of our full-day tour was spent on the slower boat and at the cookout. The main differences between the two tours seemed to be the boat speed (the half-day uses a faster boat) and the cookout (a meal is only included in the full-day tour).

Was it worth it? Kind of? If I had to do it all over again I would choose the half-day option or select another tour that included more time at Turtle Beach.

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Beachcombing

It’s illegal to remove any shells or coral from St. Croix, but what you can take home as a free souvenir is sea glass or Chaney – old broken bits of porcelain. These are considered waste, as they are manmade. Most of the seag lass we brought home with us was found on the rocky beaches on the north side of the island, and now it sits on the sill of our kitchen window catching the light and reminding us of our time in the Crucian sun.

WHERE TO EAT IN ST. CROIX

Hamilton’s

Hamilton's | 39 Queen Cross St, Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

Most of the St. Croix travel guides out there steer visitors toward one of a few upscale restaurants, typically Savant. Looking for something slightly different, we chose Hamilton’s for our anniversary dinner. Reservations for this Christiansted restaurant are booked via Instagram, and you’ll want to book early (even a few weeks out we could only snag an early reservation!). The service and food were excellent, and the prices were on par with a nice meal in a major city.

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La Reine Chicken Shack

La Reine Chicken Shack | 24-I, Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

You’ll see this roadside spot listed in every St. Croix publication for a reason – it’s just great local food, and it’s close to the airport. They’re known for their roasted chicken, but they also rotate in local specialties. Check their Facebook page for updates, and get there early for the best selection (they were out of a lot of things when we visited one afternoon). Oh, and have an extra johnnycake for me, because they are absolute heaven.

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Thomas Bakery

Thomas Bakery | 4500 Queen Mary Hwy, Christiansted, St Croix 00823, U.S. Virgin Islands

When was the last time you bought something for 35¢? Thomas Bakery’s prices start at $0.35 and max out around $3. On an island where everything feels a bit expensive, Thomas Bakery is a budget traveler’s dream. Somehow, we were the only non-locals in line, which made for an enjoyable experience. Order some of their fragrant coconut drops and buns, and bring change!

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Toast Diner

Toast Diner | 81 Queen Cross St, Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

So nice we ate there twice! Breakfast is always a tug-of-war for Michael and me – I’m happy with a cup of coffee and a pastry, and he is ravenous for a full meal as soon as he wakes. Toast Diner was a fantastic middle ground for us, with great coffee and arepas. It can get busy, so swing by and write your name on the list outside as soon as you arrive.

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Asado Crucian Latin Grill

Asado Crucian Latin Grill | 19A, Christiansted, VA 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

We weren’t planning to eat at this Puerto Rican food truck, but we finally pulled in after striking out at two or three other restaurants. That being said, the food was delicious – especially the rice and beans. We seemed to be the only tourists eating at the picnic tables outside, which is always a plus.

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Uca’s Kitchen & Rastafarian Cultural Center

Uca's Kitchen & Rastafarian Cultural Center | P478+RQ7, Custom House St, Frederiksted, St Croix 00840, U.S. Virgin Islands

A while back Michael and I decided that we would seek out at least one vegan meal each trip (we haven’t always been successful, but we’re trying). St. Croix has a large Rasta population, and there are many vegan and vegetarian options on the island. We were torn between Uca’s and Cafe Roots-N-Kulchah – but the decision was made for us when Uca’s was open and Cafe Roots-N-Kulchah wasn’t. There are many tenets of the Rasta diet, and the cultural center serves as an educational center for those in the community and those outside as well. The offerings change daily, but you’ll know that whatever you’re getting will be fresh and wholesome. There’s a small park next to the sea just a few blocks away, and it’s the perfect spot to enjoy your meal.

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X Marks the Spot

X Marks the Spot | 99 Route 751, Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

Another place we wound up because other restaurants were unexpectedly closed. We were a little thrown off by the gambling over horse races on the restaurant’s TVs, but we were so grateful the kitchen was open and still serving. The food was just okay, but our server was so sweet and accommodating. We were sad to have missed their local lobster, which looked incredible in the photos online. Next time we’re in St. Croix we’ll call to see if it’s available, but in all honesty, we might not otherwise return.

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Rosa’s Booth

Rosa's Booth | 00840,, St Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

When I saw photos of Rosa’s Booth online, I got incredibly excited. It’s these kind of off-the-beaten-path places that remind me why I travel. Rosa’s Booth is a small roadside stand selling ice pops in plastic cups and pates (you could say it’s a cousin of an empanada). We swung by one afternoon during the narrow opening hours for a special treat; after eating our saltfish pate and fruit ice pops, I can understand why there was a line!

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Armstrong’s Ice Cream

Armstrong's Ice Cream | M4XJ+F3G, Christiansted Bypass, Frederiksted, St Croix 00840, U.S. Virgin Islands

You absolutely can’t miss this century-old ice cream spot during your visit to St. Croix. It’s hot outside, and there’s nothing better than a fresh cup of ice cream on a steamy day. I’m normally a chocolate ice cream kind of gal, but when in St. Croix, go with Gooseberry and Rum Raisin (yes, even if you think you don’t like raisins).

ST. CROIX COFFEE & BARS

Breakers Roar Tiki Bar

Breakers Roar Tiki Bar | 1102 King's Wharf Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

I knew a tiki bar from Chef Digby Stridiron would be good (although apparently for awhile he lived 80 miles up the road from us in Winston-Salem – who’d’ve thought?); I just couldn’t decide what I wanted to drink. The server sealed the deal when she recommended the Rum Runner – it’s served with a sugar cube on top, which is set ablaze table-side.

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Ziggy’s Island Market

Ziggy's Island Market | 5088 Estate Solitude, Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

I was torn on which section of this post to place Ziggy’s in – it’s a market, a restaurant, and a bar all in one. But as we just stopped in on the way back from watching the sunrise at Point Udall for some coffee and a six-pack of local beer, here’s where I’m listing it. The food menu looks great, and their Sunday brunches are supposed to be fantastic – I just wasn’t hungry at that ungodly hour.

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Cup o’Joe’s

Cup o’Joe’s | 4093 Diamond Ruby Suite 2 Sunny Isles Annex Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

This is a popular spot in the center of the island for breakfast, and we stopped in for some coffee and a pate one morning after a quick run to Kmart (yes, Kmart – more on that later). Locals mostly filled the tables, getting ready for their workday. If we were in St. Croix any longer, we’d definitely stop back by for a late-morning meal.

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The Landing Beach Bar at Cane Bay

The Landing Beach Bar at Cane Bay | 110c Cane Bay, Christiansted, VI 00851, U.S. Virgin Islands

The Landing has a full bar and food menu, but the real draw for us was the view. It’s a great spot to catch the sunset with a drink in hand as we did one evening. It’s a lively spot – the patio and live music almost made us forget the pandemic.

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Virgin Islands Coffee Roasters

Virgin Islands Coffee Roasters | 1105 King St, Christiansted, St Croix 00820, U.S. Virgin Islands

I love a great cup of coffee and am willing to pay for it when I’m traveling (looking at you, Scandinavia) – and the coffee at Virgin Island Coffee Roasters in the King Christian Hotel was fantastic and expensive. As usual, I bought a bag of beans to bring home, and you should too!

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: ST. CROIX

I’m so glad I had a little time to prepare for this trip because traveling to St. Croix isn’t quite like traveling to another domestic destination – given their history this shouldn’t be a surprise.

Walking out of the tiny airport, you’ll see the very first indication that you’re somewhere new: vehicles driving on the left side of the road. You’ll have to join them, as a vehicle is really the only reliable way to get around the island. After comparing prices and reading some pretty horrible reviews of St. Croix car rental services (such as booking a car and finding they’re way overbooked), we settled on renting through Hertz using a Chase Sapphire Preferred card to avoid purchasing extra insurance from the rental company.

Our regular car insurance also applied to our rental in St. Croix, but we had to push to get State Farm to put that information in writing. We didn’t plan to do any off-roading and went with a sedan, after confirming we could access our Airbnb without four-wheel drive. Michael drove the entire trip, and I happily served as navigator; new drivers get plenty of practice leaving the airport as the rental cars have stickers on the windshield reminding drivers to stay left, and there are plenty of signs near the airport reminding you to do the same.

Traffic was pretty light for most of our visit, but we came across a few intersections that were difficult to navigate. Many of the roads aren’t well marked and are in pretty rough shape – it’s not uncommon to find a car barreling toward you in your lane to avoid the highly prevalent potholes. It’s best to avoid driving high in the mountains at night, as the roads aren’t illuminated and the turns are sharp. Additionally, a lot of the parking spots in the cities are parallel spots – which means you’ll be parallel parking on the left instead of the right. Michael’s top driving tip? Take things slow. As a small bright spot, there was never an awkward moment of accidentally trying to get in on the wrong side of the car as cars are imported from the U.S. and the steering wheel is on the left.

In addition to our car insurance working in St. Croix, our cell phones worked there, too – although the connection can be spotty. It’s always a good idea to download offline maps before you travel anywhere rural or with poor connection. Having access to a phone was essential, as we quickly found out that the business hours posted online are rarely accurate and an unanswered phone call is a decent indicator that a business is closed. We should have had more restaurant options planned in advance, as even two or three backups weren’t enough. The sun sets early in St. Croix – never after 7 p.m. and sometimes even before 6 p.m., depending on the time of year – and few restaurants are open later than 8 or 9 p.m.

I do appreciate how the Crucian culture isn’t so money-driven, but I know some people may feel the service is lacking at businesses or that Crucians aren’t “warm” or friendly. I personally feel uncomfortable being waited on hand and foot; despite the restaurant-finding hurdles, I like this laidback approach much more. One easy way to get on a Crucian’s good side is to greet everyone with a “Good Morning” (or “Afternoon”/”Evening”) upon entering an establishment or even passing someone on the street. Don’t be shy – you’ll even want to greet other customers already in line or sitting down to eat.

Looking at a map of St. Croix, you’ll see the two “major” cities: Christiansted on the north side of the island and Frederiksted to the west. Both cities have shops, restaurants, and a fort (closed during our trip), and frequent travelers have strong opinions on why one is their favorite. For us as first-time travelers, we strategically chose to stay in the center of the island. Yes, we missed out on a sea view, but we weren’t planning to hang at our simple Airbnb anyway. I wanted us to have the freedom to drive anywhere on the island in less than 45 minutes – had we stayed far to the east or west, we’d be looking at a much longer journey to get anywhere we wanted to go. This put us slightly closer to Christiansted, so ultimately many of the places we visited were closer to the capital.

Throughout the island, you’ll notice places still in disrepair from the hurricanes in 2017, and it’s not uncommon for the places on the island to lose power. When you’re considering a place to stay, you may want to ask your host or hotel if a backup generator is available – although we lucked out and didn’t experience any power interruptions. I don’t think anyone will disagree that St. Croix isn’t a pristine, luxury destination, but that wasn’t the kind of travel experience I was seeking.

Traveling during COVID-19 felt so strange, but coming from the mainland U.S. where many take mask mandates as a mere suggestion, I really appreciated how seriously the community takes prevention measures. Wearing a mask is the norm, even outside on a non-busy street. Curfews and indoor capacity limits are strictly enforced; more than once we were asked to wait outside until there was space. And of course, ~~all visitors are required to submit a negative Covid test before departing for the island~~ [edit: the mandate has been dropped]. But ultimately we spent so much time just driving around the island or walking along the beaches by ourselves that in many ways our trip felt refreshingly normal. As this trip was domestic, we were not required to submit any testing before our return flight. However, it is recommended travelers arrive at the airport three hours in advance, as the screening process is lengthier. Having TSA Precheck sped us through the process, and we made it to the gate with plenty of time to spare – even after submitting to additional agriculture screening for the produce we brought home.

Cost-wise, this trip was more expensive than our past trips, and we incurred some extra expenses, too. Our Airbnb host encouraged us to use the provided bath towels at the beach, but we couldn’t find them and instead had to purchase expensive beach towels at Kmart (We ended up asking our host if she would use these beach towels for future guests, and she delightedly said yes. We were pretty delighted as well, as this meant we did not need to bring home wet towels!). Before we left for St. Croix, we watched this video on YouTube, and the bit of info that stuck with us the most is that everyone shops at Kmart because it’s the only place like it on island.

It’s recommended to avoid drinking tap water in St. Croix, so we also bought large containers of water and portioned them into our collapsible water bottles. We stayed in a small Airbnb to save money, but some places offer filtered water, which could offset the cost a bit. Food and drink on island are on average more expensive than they are in Charlotte, but there are values to be had, too. One extra cost we didn’t incur? Postage stamps, which are of course the same price as back home. I keep a sheet of postcard stamps in my wallet so I never waste time looking for a U.S. post office.

WITH MORE TIME IN ST. CROIX

St. Croix has some stunning natural wonders, and we certainly missed out on a few (sounds like a good excuse to go back!). With more time, we’d consider one of the hikes to secluded beaches or a tide pool. One reason we skipped those this time around was the fear of car break-ins and theft (another reason is the presence of stinky seaweed on some of the beaches). We’d read lots of personal experiences online when planning this trip, and it wasn’t something we wanted to waste time possibly dealing with. It’s evident these break-ins are still occurring, as we spotted lots of broken glass around the parking spots by the trailhead for the hike to Jack’s Bay and Isaac’s Bay. If you’re going to take these hikes, leave your rental car unlocked and take everything with you. We’d also read some (possibly inflated) stories about safety at night, and mostly headed home after dinner – but that’s primarily because there wasn’t anything else to do at night since everything closes pretty early. As we always tell our family when they ask us about safety and traveling: something could happen to you anywhere, so why let it scare you into staying home? Just practice some basic travel safety smarts.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON VISITING ST. CROIX

In truth, I can’t wait to return to St. Croix; if we were ever in a place to do so, I would seriously consider purchasing a modest vacation home there. It’s not a polished, shiny gem of an island – it’s got grit and character, and I love that. If you’re the kind of traveler who can see past the surface and embrace the little inconveniences, I’m sure you’ll fall in love with it too.

MAP: FOUR DAYS IN ST. CROIX

Are you considering a trip to St. Croix? Have you visited the USVI before?